Climb up to the roof pulling on underclings and reach out to some crimps above the roof.

Sticky Situation

The World's Hardest Five Twelve

Magnatude

Oh it's you Bob

Leather Nun

The Haulage

The Tantrum

Sanctified

Stick clip the first bolt and then climb out a roof on good jugs to some minor difficulties turning the lip.  Rest up on some jugs and then make some easy moves up to the fifth bolt.  Clip the fifth bolt from some perfectly sculpted hand sized jugs and then move into the business.

The crux boulder problem features some unforgiving crimps on very steep terrain.  There is no way to weasel your way around this crux.  Bring finger strength and a boulderer's mentality if you hope to have any success on this 3-4 move boulder problem.  The obvious sequence sets you up for brutal shoulder wrenching, iron cross beta, but alternative beta spares you of the shouldery move.  The boulder problem is hard V5 if not V6.

At the sixth bolt, transitioning from the steep angle to a blunt arete is a bit sequential.  Once established on the arete the climbing eases to 5.11 with numerous resting spots.

Long slings on the third and fourth bolt make the excursion more enjoyable (from a rope drag stand point).  Best to try this route in the afternoon shade as the crimps can be a bit tempermental.

Farthest left climb on the First Buttress. Start up a short steep section and break right at the upper roof. Pull a long move and keep it together until the chains.

Start out by climbing straight up to clip the first bolt.  Head up and left, then back right to the 2nd bolt.   From here difficulty backs down a bit for the next few bolts.   Lots of high steps and reaches to positive holds.  Make good use of any rests, you'll need it for the top.  After clipping the last bolt, the crux begins...Small crimps and small feet can be used to make a big move to a nice mail slot hold.   Once you stick the hold, aim for the left facing corner, making a reach for a nice jug with poor feet.  From here, there's a few easy moves to the shuts.   The slabby section below the shuts can be a bit dirty.   Very nice climb!  A must do for the area!

Very similar to Magnatude, but with a little more variety of movement and a spicy top out. Mostly good holds with some big moves. Tons of fun and well worth doing.

This climb begins right off the ground with some in your face climbing. The first 3 bolts could be described as a long v8 with hard pulls on tiny holds. When you reach the third bolt, rest up and try to keep your composure for maybe the hardest move on the route. Make this move and finish the route with 12a/b climbing to the chains. The top has one more heartbreaker section that you may want to have dialed before you are on the redpoint. Originally climbed by Porter Jarrard by aiding up to the first bolt (13a) and later sent from the ground by Mike Williams (13c).

The Haulage, or Worlds Hardest Variation as some call it, shares the first four bolts with the Worlds Hardest 5.12.  The four bolt opening section has fun climbing between slopers and jugs.  The 5.12 section hits you right after the two routes diverge.  Follow the left bolt line through a steep section of rock.  Move up the 20 degree overhanging wall with a series of dead points and hard lock offs between slopers and edges.  The crux sequence is 10 moves long and allows no margin for hesitation.  The moves are hard, but very straight forward.

If you like soft falls you should leave the first bolt unclipped and place long draws or slings on bolts three and four.  Short draws get the rope wedged in a crack and results in a not so fun abrupt catch.  The route gets shade around 2:00 p.m.

Tantrum has the wildest moves of any of the routes that breach the roof of the first buttress.  The rock quality is good and the majority of the holds are jugs and slopers.  Begin by flowing through fun moves to the second bolt.  Just after this section dont get blindsided by a difficult deadpoint to a sloper.  Move with ease to the base of the 10' roof and then rail out the roof on a series of good plates.  Use some aggressive footwork to reach a large undercling crack near the lip of the roof.  Jam one limb, two limbs, maybe three?  When you feel sufficiently wedged, clip the 5th bolt.  Finish with a thrilling compression feature followed by a stroll to the anchor.  Your enjoyment of this route will likely come down to your ability to securely jam the crack.

Description

Protection

Routes in 2. First Buttress