150 feet left of the point where the trail meets the wall is a collection of one pitch sport routes taking off from a flat spot in the talus. Several routes right of the obvious dihedral with a trad crack inside is a long route up a clean, juggy yellowish wall. This is Last Chance, and it provides one of the best sport pitches on the rock. The angle backs off after the mid point, but this does not diminish an excellent route. Last Chance has good stone, is well protected, and offers fine climbing - well worth the trip.

Last Chance

Baby Doe

Molly Brown

Rimpelstilskin

One Thin Line

Prospector

Silver Dollar

Spindrift

Climax

Twin Flakes

Red Dawn

Glory Hole

Black Cloud

Baby Rex

Follow 8 bolts up a steep, left-angling dihedral. I found this route to be very pumpy with the crux coming up high between the 6th and 7th bolt. Once the 8th bolt is clipped, I actually had to step down a few feet to a decent ledge and keep traversing left for about 10' and then up to reach the anchors. This may have not been the correct way, but going up and over seemed a bit desperate for 10b.

Rappel with 1 60m to the ground. Enjoy!

As per

Michael Schneiter

: just left of Corner Crack, the dihedral that forms the left edge of the Boulder Wall are two short moderate climbs. Baby Doe is the lefthand of the two routes, starting below some large boulders that for a mini-cave next to the wall. Six bolts adequately protect the path of this worthy moderate with a well-protected crux where the climb jogs left at mid-height before ending at a small ledge and two bolt anchor.

This route has multiple cruxes that have enough differences between them to challenge a variety of climbers/styles.  Expect thin, bulgy slab climbing with enough smeary footholds to keep you mentally engaged (or perhaps disengaged from the rock).

The difficulties start immediately with the first bulge.  Scoping out the route from the scree slope at the base can help a bunch here.  The fun continues with the next bulge (crux?) which can be harder to read, along with a series of challenging sections punctuated by decent stances all the way to the anchors.

Rimpelstilskin is the only bolted route on this section of rock.The crux is located at the closely bolted bulge just above the start. A hidden pocket and Riflesque moves are required to navigate this section without utilizing Dihedral Crack. Above, climb a fun 5.10 romp through a couple of quizzical sections stretches to the anchors. It is 11a/b if you stay on the face, 13 bolts, chain anchors, 110 feet.

*A 70m rope is required.*

This is another good route on the Iron Side Wall of Monitor Rock.  This route is located just right of

Prospector

and shares anchors with this route.  The crux comes between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, and there is a slight run between the 3rd and 4th bolt that would probably take a black/blue Alien or equivalent.  The climbing eases a bit here, but just throwing it out there, since I wouldn't want to blow the 4th clip.

Prospector is located near the middle of the Ironside wall, not far past the large boulders on the trail.  Start below the distinctive triangular overhang.

Scamper up to the first bolt, then get established at the lip of the overhang to make the second clip.  Crank up and over the lip, then past five more bolts to the anchors.  Large handholds throughout.

I thought this was a very fun route that is located just left of

Baby Doe

on the Iron Side wall.  The first few bolts get you warmed up.  Then you hit the bulge, milk the rest right before the bulge as the business is next.  At the bulge, follow the good holds right, smack the arete, and move back left on good holds.  After moving up and getting the next clip, I found it very difficult to get off my hands, but my footwork could have been poor.  Enjoy!

Spindrift has thin holds that lead over the bulge.

Climb the steep arête 20 feet left of

Glory Hole

.  This has long moves to good holds with the crux being just past the last bolt.

The bolt placement is a little spicy, be careful going from bolt 1 to 2. Blow the clip and you may deck.

This has about the same difficulty as

One Thin Line

but with better clipping holds (ie. more fun/less desperate).

This route climbs very solid pink granite through 7 clips to a 2-bolt anchor. The lower section moves through positive incut holds to a series of laybacks to the right of the bolts, finishing at a dog-dish type hold at the fourth bolt. The route then traverses left a few feet before entering the crux, a couple long moves over the bulge. This crux will be considerably harder for people shorter than 5'7". After the crux, a couple 5.11 moves to the anchors! Basically, this entire route moves through solid good holds with good feet, but gets its grade from the powerful moves at the crux...have fun.

Climb the center of the steep, orange colored face.  The crux is near the top of the route.

Baby Rex could be the easiest route at Monitor! It has good holds and good rock and is only 5.7.

Description

Protection

Routes in 5. Iron Side Wall