I've heard several local climbers describe Father Figure as one of their all-time favorite problems in the region.  This apt name comes from hard-dude Stephen's newest adventure into fatherhood (he now has a second son!).  He quickly put down this open project in less than stellar conditions on a short visit to the New before traveling home to take over diaper duties.  Father Figure shares the start of Angel Eye (on the large flat shelf) but stays gently further right on better holds on the arete for a few compression moves.  After a few compression moves, a large reach up and left to a large shelf for the top-out.  Shake it out and have your spotters shuffle pads for an easier, but pumpy top out through the corner feature on the headwall.  A must-do for the V10 sandstone aficionado and most of the crux holds can be previewed from the ground.

Father Figure

Angel Eye

New Bae

Old Bay

Season's Change

Right-side of the cave.  Sit start on the large flat shelf.  Angel Eye trends directly through the steep roof on minuscule compression holds and long moves requiring phenomenal core strength.  Gain the obvious flat shelf and top out through the small corner feature on the headwall.

An alternate, but likely more fun start to Old Bay and adds a lot of great movement.  Plus, this one sits!  Sit-start on flat incut crimps and precise feet to a few hand moves just left of Old Bay, eventually gaining the same broken-looking pinch block feature just under the rolling roof.  From here, an over the chest knee bar, or precise deadpoint stabs will help you gain the headwall.  Chill for a moment as your spotters shuffle pads for the final climb out of the cave.

Old Bay is the first known established boulder problem in the center of the cave with some great link-up additions following shortly thereafter.  To locate the start, look for a flat, right-hand side-pull in the middle of the cave and less than obvious left-hand crimp.  To begin, crouch start on the flat side-pull and crimp and climb mostly pinch blocks to the lip of the cave.  Taller folks are able to skip certain bad holds creating a variety of opinions on the overall grade.  I'm sure as more climbers visit the area, a consensus grade will settle.  Just as all the other cave problems, this one tops out, though on less than comfortable holds.  If you manage your pump well, you'll be rewarded by better holds at the lip.  On the more positive side, the landing is flat and easy to pad.

Stand start on obvious holds left of Angel Eye.  The difficulty of this problem involves negotiating a precise deadpoint in the roof.  The full line tops out on decent holds.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Angel Eye Cave