Fools Gold climbs the splitter on the face of the tower away from the wall. Climb up crumbly lighter rock with a thin ass crack to a roof bulge where the rock & gear improves greatly. Climb the slightly off vertical thin crack through the sizes to a wide pod and pull up onto the ledge and climb the last 15ft shared with Chimney Route protected by a lone drilled angle.

I opted to bring a bit more gear to lead this route with the potential choss factor. I doubt this splitter has eva peeped an ascent wit tha amount of sand n' loose shiznit I was able to clean out. The bottom is poor rock quality but the upper varnished section is better, I cleaned most of what I could on lead and then rapping back off so it's ready to go, rip a lap, fun one.

Fools Gold

Chimney Route

Start on the north side of the chimney and walk inside. Climb up the chimney that is protected by a crack.  Mantel onto a ledge or the shoulder of the spire.  Clip a drilled pin which is a great foot hold, and  climb to the summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pyrite Tower