Start direct by jamming or laying back the large flake (crux), or bypass the flake with the “hatchet variation” by starting from the higher boulder to the right of the flake. Continue up by skirting the left edge of the slab. Remain on the right side of the vegetated crack. Jam and continue over the large block, past the slab easement to the anchor. (The best finish leaves left from the top of the block, up the polished yellow arete and ridge.)

Elephant Walk

Poacher’s Crack

Edison Crack

Dumbo Proof

Tusk and Sun

Elephant Walla

Climbs Like White Elephants

Elephant’s Shoes

Start the same as Tusk and Sun. Traverse right under the roof, following the crack until you can mantel onto the ramp. Follow the ramp to the flaring fist crack. Build an anchor or head over the top to the bolts.

Head straight up the slab, following the ramp to the rightmost crack. Climb the crack to the anchor.

Head up the slab to the start of the left-arching crack. Climb the crack, breaking toward the anchor at any time.

Head straight up the slab, staying to the left of the bolts. Climb the middle of the block, using both underclings. You can get good gear above if you want it. Continue to the anchor.

At the left end of the crag, start under the obvious roof. Climb straight up and over.

Start at the lowest point of slab. Head straight up the blank slab, passing the eye of the elephant, using the path of most resistance.

Head straight up the slab until you reach the good crimp. Pull past the crimp and clip the bolt on your left. Staying on the arete, continue up, and clip the next bolt on your left from the scoop. Go straight up over the right end of the block and past Edison Crack, and finish on the clean slab to the anchor. (The crux is before the first bolt, stick-clip it to nix the PG-13 rating.)

A nice addition to the surrounding boulders and the crags across the street, this sunny slab has a handful of good beginner to intermediate routes. The routes are longer than they appear from the ground and are definitely worth a casual visit.

 Bring a standard rack to a #3 for most climbs. There are glue-ins with quicklinks and rap rings at the top. Please DO NOT toprope from the rings. Rap with a 60m, or walk straight back past the boulder and off the large gully climber’s left.

 For TR'ing, a quad works well for most climbs. A boulder pinch anchor can be used to access the top anchor safely.

 For a few years anyway, full-length climbing was blocked by a large, fallen pine. While cleaning the area, we found an OLD climbing sling buried beneath the sod. In other ways too, it was obvious this crag had been climbed before, but attempts at finding its history have thus far come up empty. The names given are only working titles until further information is discovered. Cheers!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Little Elephant Head