Similar in the feel of the rock and the movement to Amelia Dearheart, Taylor Brook is a decent 5.7.  This one holds a bit more lichen and moss, though.     After leading the two routes to its right, TR this one off of the anchors for Amelia Dearheart.     It's too bad that it lost its bolts.  It's better than other routes at Smith, and the more easy routes, the better.  It spreads out the packs, and allows the area to continue evolving.  Maybe there was a good reason(?).

Taylor Brook

I'm Your Hate

Kunza Korner

Stögerific

Sabotage

Yoder Eaters

Wave of Bliss

Crumble Pie

9999

South Park

Just the Tip

Smith Rock Group Traverse

Amelia Dearheart

Quite the adventurous day out in some desert alpine-style climbing on one of Smith's most photogenic features!  

  Start as for Vulture Ridge (5.6 X) by approaching the back side of the southern tip area and follow the first gully on the right. Climb this gully to the ridge (2 pitches, 5.6 X). 

  Once on the ridge, use 4th class terrain management techniques (it's SUPER exposed on the right side of the ridge) to traverse up and down through the spires until you reach Vulture Gully. Once at a prominent spire within sight of Vulture Gully, rappel off a large horn to a dirty ledge approx. 2/3 of the way off the ground from upper Vulture Gully. **Note: Be extremely mindful from here on out about rockfall as anything you pull off may cascade into parties below you at the base of the Phoenix crags.** 

  Once on the ledge, traverse across the ledge until reaching the final gully that leads back up to the ridge (many options here, we went for the final gully on the ledge system). In this gully, climb a decent face to the right, then traverse left into a steep bulge move on horrendous rock (5.9+ X). When pulling this bulge, you will arrive atop Vulture Ridge again. 3rd class from here around the remainder of the ridge. 

  Reach the base of the west tower for Smith Summit by hiking around to the base. Follow the route West Tower (5.4 A1) to a 2-bolt anchor. Belaying from this 2-bolt anchor, traverse across to the true summit of the west tower of Smith Summit, and use another 2-bolt anchor to traverse back to the top of West Tower. Rappel the route west tower back to the ledge you started on. 

  From here, hike along the ridge to the right (NW) until reaching a saddle between Arrowpoint and the Platform. Choose to either climb to the top of Arrowpoint (5.6 X, 2 pitches) or the Platform from here (also 5.6 X, 2 pitches). Note: to claim this traverse, both towers need to be summited. Either downclimb or rappel each tower with a single 60m rope. 

  After summiting both Arrowpoint and the Platform, scramble down to the top of the Northeast Face (finish for Sky Ridge and Sky Dive). Collect your final tower selfie here. Get psyched; you just traversed the most iconic feature at Smith Rock! 

  Rappel as you would for Wherever I May Roam, Sky Ridge, or any other route finishing atop the Northeast Face of the Smith Rock Group.

Worth climbing if you are in the area... 

  Start in a bolted dihedral and stem up to a weird crux moving onto the face. Head up and right to an anchor. 

  About 15 feet left of the anchor is a huge partialy detached flake with an owl's nest behind it. Be respectful not to disturb.

I would have to konsider Kunza Korner one of the best klimbs in the park! Worth the hike for sure. 

  Start just left of the cave and follow the corner to an anchor just below the roof. 

  Things start out pretty easy and build slowly as you ascend. The crux is thin and involves some face holds. You can sew the crux up with small stoppers but they are small so place a few. 

The start is a bit delicate, but the climbing eases as you continue right and up, finishing on a nice ramp.

Start at the overhanging crack and pull hard moves to gain first bolt (5.12 if not using the cheater stone).  Easier climbing leads to tricky moves on glassy layback.

This route is a bit creaky and delicate at the bottom, then pulls through a small bulge before the finish. The anchors on this route are missing, so you're better off veering right after the fourth bolt and finishing on 'I'm Your Hate'. This variation is listed in the guide book as 'Stögerific'.

An exciting route on mostly good rock with tricky route finding and some serious runouts on solid 5.10 terrain.

 Starting right of the arete, climb past two bolts (crux) and work up a ramp (pin) to a welcome stance.  Place the #2 and/or #3 camalot in a pocket on the face left of the arete and climb up to bolt.  Continue up to the next bolt 35 feet above.  Work up the face protected by a critical wire placement and another bolt, eventually reaching easier ground.  From here, the rock quality deteriorates somewhat.  Traverse right to the South Park anchor or continue to the top passing one more bolt.

Slab from start to finish with par rock. Don't expect to have a bolt right beside you for some of the more delicate moves.

Not bad for a 5.6.  The rock feels like the best parts of Red Wall, and the climbing is actually fun.  It starts on a heavily textured slab, and moves into a cool layback.   We took some kids out here.  They couldn't do the lay-backing at the top, but had a great time.  And it wasn't too bad for the adults: relatively secluded, decent climbing.

Great arete climb away from the hordes. Shares the same start as Wave of Bliss but stays on the arete. 

  The first bolt is about 15' up the arete followed by another bolt, then a piton. Once past the piton the climbing becomes much more difficult but well protected.    Technical arete climbing on crimps and smears lead to slightly easier ground just below the anchor.

Route to the right of 9999 and trad crack in corner. Start is up a right sloping ledge right of the base of 9999. 5, 6? bolts to the top with anchors. 

A decent 5.7, but not as cool as 9999.  You might as well do it if you are there.  The opening moves provide the grade; finish on a long, easy featured slab.

The southern most part of Smith Rock Group (and of Smith Rock), this crag is located where both the trail and Crooked River make a near-180 degree turn and head back north toward Asterisk Pass. When approaching from the front side (from Phoenix Buttress), the first batch of climbs (encountered just before rounding the tip) range in difficulty from 5.10c to 5.12a. For easier climbs, continue around the tip to the section called Waterfall Slab. Southern Tip's most popular route is Kunza Korner (5.10c).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (5) Southern Tip