Prominent highest crack system on "The Cattle Hole." Begins on top of a boulder in a dihedral on the left front side of Cattle Hole. Climbs the hand crack with good pro until it flares into an offwidth with little pro to the ledge. Belay from large ledge under chockstone. Follow dihedral crack between The two main features of Cattle hole up to bolted anchor on the right face as the crack begins to flare into an offwidth. Rappel from this anchor to the right all the way to the ground with a 70 meter rope.

Caviar Within Crackers

Slab Route

Itty Bitty Tittie Committee

Choss Moss and Butt Floss

Mustafa

Chardonnay Champagne

Fizz

Split - Split 8

Left Cheek

Birthday Butt Crack

Magic Pig

Whale crack #1

Jackie's Rack

Blackhawk Pinnacle

Choss Factor 10

Curving Crack

This is on the first tower, behind Tuning in Tokyo Tower.

It faces east.

Climb the left, hand crack to a fixed anchor.

Start atop the boulder and easily clip first bolt- Fun gritty slab climbing gives way to shallow dishes and edges up the center of the slab, through the obvious weaknesses.

Climbs the face on decent holds. Crux is the first bit.

Climb the bolted crack right of "Birthday Butt Crack", past 7 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Right side of the blank far end wall. Rubber tester start off the deck leads to even more invisible feet and imaginary hands. Described as "Open Project" in the 2008 guide. Locals say the new name is "Mustafa" Extremely delicate movements may gain the middle/upper section where climbing gets a bit easier with actual handholds.

The Crux move is getting over the Roof at the start and getting on to the Face for a good mix of 5.8 to 5.9 climbing. This is a good pumpy steep route with an abundance of good underclings and sidepulls but care must be taken as the rock is a little weak and pulling off a hold would certainly be a possibility but worth the fun factor. Belayer should be sure to wear a helmet.

This climbs scary holds on the right side if the second tower. To the right of "Pop".

Climb past 9 bolts to the anchor.

The Crux move is moving from under the roof up into the chimney. Make a few hand jams in the crack to gain footing on the face as you move up and left into the chimney. From there it is a good face climb but if needed at the bottom you can do some chimney moves.  Keep an eye out for some great side pulls on the face of the front wall.

Top rope the thin cracks to the left of "Birthday Butt Crack".

This is on the left side of the second tower, facing north. A difficult entry leads to easier climbing. 9 bolts.

This climbs the last tower before the slab.

Hand crack on the left side of a whaleback shaped formation. Slightly bouldery start at the bottom, rolls over to easy walk up with pro placements up a flat area. Descent is to downclimb this crack or the one next door.

Climbs a seam to a ledge, finish on face.  Lower off.

Start with a blind bolt clip on the rounded chossy flare.  Work your way up into the super grotty chimney or do a few bold face moves up the arete.  Either way a fall will probably knock you silly.  Clip another bolt which seems to be after the crux (not good for your longevity) and then wander up the face and grainy cracks to the top.  If you have pro, place it.  If you do not, well, carry on and keep your wits about you.

More hard than fun.  Tricky pro is barely adequate to keep you off the ground.  Better be solid at the grade before jumping on this one.  After the initial dihedral, it becomes more of a face climb than a crack as the name would imply.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Cattle Pocket