This top-rope feels squeezed in, but is easy to set up and is a fun exercise in technical slab climbing. It starts on the face between the cracks of Amtrax and Anthrax, and crosses over Amtrax half-way up. The rock is clean and technical, but the close proximity makes it feel almost like an eliminate. On the upper portion, I found it exceedingly difficult to resist using Amtrax as a side-pull.

Tracks

Amtrax

Anthrax

Amtrax is very similar to its neighbor, Anthrax, but slightly easier. The crack climbing is still excellent, but there are more supplemental holds around the crack which make jamming not as necessary. The original route takes the right-hand split of the crack, and has some slabby PG13 climbing once the crack ends. A variation is to take the left-hand split which is protectable all the way up to the anchors, but is not as aesthetic a line.

This is an excellent short crack and slab climb. The crack is gorgeous, with perfect hand jams tapering to tight fingers at the top. The crux occurs once the crack disappears, with a few delicate 5.9 slab moves. But even after the crux, the climb keeps you on your toes, because the slab continues for another 20 ft without any protection, but getting easier as you approach the anchors.

This small wall in the Rabbit Ears Massif area hosts a couple excellent short crack climbs. While probably not a destination itself, its close proximity to The Citadel and the Rabbit Ears Slabs make it worth a visit if you finish off a climb on one of those walls and want a few extra pitches of quality climbing. It is also right next to "the Keyhole", a distinct and interesting feature on the ridge above Rabbit Ears Slabs.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shortline Wall