Traverse out of an alcove and gain a left angling crack. Follow the crack through pumpy 5.11 to a crux that exits the crack straight up in sandy, white rock to the top.

Atta Pepper

Sun Wall

Daisy

Milk Crate

Easy Peasy

Project

Sea King

Datura Crack

It takes 2 hands

Lucky Lizard

Get a Job

Layback Crack

Flotsam

Easy Street

The Shield

Dirty Dancing

B.I.A.

Wrath of Kong

Avanyu

Bird's Beak

Small warm up boulder

Wrath of Curious George

Pipe Line

Just Cuz

Evinrude Crack

Kong to the right

Bump to Conclusions

Patina's Abandonment

Liquid Nylon

Coleman's  Daughter

The route looks much harder than it is. It is an amazing combination of slab climbing followed by overhanging jugging.

 Start on the platform to the left of the cracks and roofs. Traverse to the right staying low. Make vertical progress up the second 45 degree crack into a good left sidepull. Look above and find amazing jugs to clear two small roofs. Use the bat crack on the left after the second small roof to get high feet and lieback or desperate jam the flake. Traverse right at the top of the flake to get to a comfortable dismount spot.

Beautiful, sheer, sunny wall that gets great afternoon sun. Wander up features in the face to a crux at about the 25 foot level. Climb crimpy moves to a sloping ledge with an in your face redpoint crux over a bulge above. Finish on a good ledge about 25 feet before the top of the wall.

A very fun short climb with a great roof at 15 feet - perfect height. In the area of Easy Street.

Obvious arete right of Flotsam.  Thin start to easier climbing above.  You might need to bring a milk crate to reach the starting holds.  

Way fun, way easy, way good holds, nice ledge on top.  About 5.4.  

From the boat, climb 15 feet up easy terrain to a ledge to the left of the initially steep and featureless bulge of the Sea King. From the ledge, traverse right using edges and good feet until you can reach the sloping shelf at the lip of the overhang. Cut your feet and climb straight up sloping features on the headwall for 20 feet. Balancy through the midddle, then a little tricky to the final topout holds. Classic movement. Named after our boat.

Really solid hands all along the lower level of the crack. Easy to find feet throughout. Small mantle to top out and reach the ledge to jump down.

Climb the Off width. A variety of technique's can be used. Stacking? check. Armbars? check?   Either way the difficulty is the same. In the middle of the route there is a slight constriction that represents the crux.

nice little slightly inverted wall.  Lots of jugs to hold on to and you can cary it to get to the top.  After you get on the little landing midway is where it becomes slightly more difficult.  You can co right up on the arret  or even climb to the left or right.   After you get up and over you can jump from there or keep going up.  

Start up left of the arete being sure not to fall for the first 10 feet. Bust right to great features on the arete. The crux comes at about the 20 foot level, and finishes on great patina jugs to the top.

Nice looking crack line that involves little jamming, I found a layback to be helpful. Nice ledge to jump off around 40 feet.

Flotsam climbs a pair of finger cracks that get further apart as you go. The crux comes in the start with a dead point using a sandy foot hold, but is followed by bitchin' sustained moves to the top. Transfer into the right crack at the top. A combination of finger locks and compression. Classic!

As always it is going to depend on rain fall. Start on under cling and left side pull to head right to the big heart to match on a set of crimps. Head straight up some better crimps to a thin black crimp edge and side pull top out.

Starts on a scooped face to the right of a nice clean arete feature. Climb a couple moves up the scooped face until you find a half pad crimp over the top of the first little micro roof. Set up and make a hard sideways slap left to the arete. After latching the sloping arete, make a beautiful series of hand matches/switches on the arete in order to bring your body to the other side and into a layback position. Now deadpoint up and left to a jug in the right angling crack above. Follow the crack up and right past a roof and a large chockstone then enjoy a few more fun moves to the top of the crack.

Beginner. Intermediate. Advanced. Choose your comfort level climbing high above the water sans rope. The start is the trickiest part; either jam the crack on the left, stem across with one hand on each crack, or do some sort of combo. After about 15 feet of this, you will be at the first (beginner) ledge for jumping. From here you can mix climbing in the dihedral and on the face on the right. The climbing is easier as you go up. You can stop at a midway ledge (intermediate) or go all the way to the top (advanced).

Traverse left across a low roof. At a point you need to go straight up to a small crack then up to a slab to top out. check out beta picture. if you want a easier version you don't traverse as long and grab a huge jug to make it a V2

Start by standing on the water level slab and get hands on horizontal shelf feature and move to the diagonal rail in middle of the face. Work up the rail to reach nose feature. Get up on the nose and make the crux move to grab the jug shelf left of the roof. Mantle up the shelf and climb the easy slab trending left along the arete until you reach the top out platform. NOTE: Slight protrusion of the slab feature below crux move depending on water level. Nothing above average for the area, but if you blow the crux to the jug shelf try to push off the wall with your feet to be extra safe. That's good DWS practice anyway. I fell many times at this move and it always felt safe as the movement already has you leaning out and away from the wall. Still - be aware especially if new to DWS.

An extremely fun traverse across a horizontal crack with bad feet that leads directly to a roof at about 15 to 20 feet high (the beak of the bird's head facing left). Get all up in that roof and make your move. Followed by easy low angle hand crack. Bail anywhere you please. Jumping from the top of the black "plumage" on top of the bird's head is fine.

This rock should jump right out at you on your way back starting from the bridge this will be on your left. This boulder has one main route up the black streak,v0 one up the brown streak,v0 the arete goes v1 and the far right light tan v0 great for the start or end of your day all these are about five moves to the top.

Same start as the wrath of kong just about couple moves in the traverse you shoot up to a huge jug and finish with ease

Climbs a varnished, scoopy face 25 feet off the water(the crux)to another 25 feet of easier terrain. 

  Start up the dogleg crack then move right into cruxy varnished scoop.

Milk Crate start to nice right-slanting rail. 

Start in a dihedral and work up and left to get to a fun hand crack.  Top out after the crack on easier climbing and down climb the back side or jump to get back home.

Start at the bulge and getting over it is the crux.  Once your on top then travers to the right and end up at the top of Wrath of Kong

An overhanging roof with horizontal and diagonal seems leads to a committing move at the top.

Start at the base of the crescent shaped crack. Not really a crack climb, but it follows the crack straight up.

Liquid Nylon climbs a prominent 80 foot buttress just left of Dirty Dancing. It follows a crack/dihedral feature that angles just slightly right. Tricky moves bring you to the crux at about 35 feet. Once through the crux, jam your way up the short handcrack over a bulge/block to a ledge at the 50 foot level. From here jump....or steel yourself and traverse left a little and continue climbing up the exposed headwall another 25 feet to the top of the wall. Although it's clean air to the creek, falling from this final headwall would be painful, and possibly injurious. The climbing is only about 5.8 and is pretty secure. To get down, scramble back down to the ledge at the top of the dihedral and take the reasonable jump from there.

A pretty little climb up a seam with patina features on the right side. Fairly sustained sidepulling and crimping. Very aesthetic line.

As you and your crew head upstream from the put in, the climbs on your left will be listed here on the East Side. The warm up rock is a good stop if you need something low and safe to get accustomed to the experience of climbing, falling, then swimming, and re-entering your boat. Another tame warm-up and good introduction to the area is The Shield - a slightly overhanging 25 foot shield of rock with enticing black patina near the top. It's just tall enough to ignite the adrenaline that keeps you clinging to the rock despite the pump. Another option is to paddle or motor all the way back to the 45 Degree Wall and warm up on Bump to Conclusions. On your way out there you can formulate a strategy for sending all the classics and projects you pass by. After playing around the 45, slowly move back downstream reeling in climbs as you go.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in DWS East Side