Jeepers, this crux is hard. It's really too bad that this route is so short, because the rock is stellar and the climbing is really bouldery. Begin by climbing decent pockets up to a big edge (which getting to isn't trivial). Now the route is ready to kick your ass. Reach up and right to a small rounded gaston, fight to get your left foot up on the big edge and slap the nothing sloper-sidepull with your left hand. Try your best to stay on the rock and stab to a 3-finger pocket with your right hand.... done. Then climb about 10 more feet of 11a or so. Pretty darn hard.

New Revelation

Totally Pagan

Powers That Be

The Giving Tree

This short and stout route is about 20 feet left of New Revelation. It begins behind a small bush. It's similar in style to the popular Blind Faith at the Mohican.    The 3rd bolt is a bit tricky to clip. I turned a right hand pocket into an undercling and clipped a pre-hung long draw. You can clip off of a sidepull/fingerlock to the left of the bolt as well, but it's a little tenuous. The climbing on this route is really fun, including a body tension crux off the  sidepull followed by a decent rest and an awesome finishing sequence that is a bit harder than you are expecting.    I don't think this route has had a 2nd ascent. Correct me if I'm wrong.

This is one of those routes that had my number. I knew how hard it was, I knew how to do it, I knew I could do it, and yet I fell in the same place every stinking time. I gave up (in '96) and Scott from MN nabbed the FA (in '06, in the rain just to add insult to injury).   Anyway, this route is incredible and incredibly powerful. Climb the slightly overhanging first 15 feet up to the bulge. The climbing through the bulge is some of the coolest I've done in the canyon. After you manage the crux bulge, the upper headwall eases up but it does contain one little dicey move.   Hats off to Scott.

Fun warm-up. The crux is low on small 2-finger pockets, after which the climbing is pumpy on decent pockets.

This small, isolated area has four short routes, a 13a/b, 13a, 12c/d and a 10d. The rock on all four routes is bomber and the moves on all three "hard" routes are very powerful. The movement on these routes is superb, albeit short-lived.   The name "Greg's Gully" was coined (besides obvious reasons) to differentiate it from the newly developed (at that time) Big Picture Gully. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Greg's Gully