A steep, clean  finger crack in a dihedral with a short thin section requiring tip-locks or a big reach. The walls of the corner are smooth and largely devoid of features, making for some committing stemming. At about 2/3 height, Manifest Destiny traverses into this corner and the crack widens to fists with some chockstone moves interspersed. This line doesn't seem to receive much traffic, but stays surprisingly clean.

Black-Jones Direct

Pseudo- Wiessner

Sundance

Blue Stem Skyway

Wiessner

Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route

The interesting problem below

Direct Southwest

Manifest Destiny

Fritz's Fantasy

P.O.T.C.

Double-Edged Blade

Space Ranger

Durrance

Tunnel Vision

Rangers Are People Too

Liken Lichen

Late for Dinner

Lovely Liana

P1:  This pitch is nothing short of STELLAR.  The crack starts very thin and gradually widens to hands.  The coolest move is moving past the large roof to your left.  Stem your way to a semi hanging belay under the second large roof.  Notice the great deal of texture difference between the left and right walls.  Mother Nature is SOOOOO wondrous...

P2:  Pass the roof on the left, through the off-width section to the column top.

P3:  Either traverse right to the Meadows, or finish on "Bailey Direct".

NOTE:  Most parties rappel after P1.

Climb up and right then back left, from the eyebolts to the base of two broken columns. Climb up (5.7) and belay on top of the higher column.

Climb a crack (5.8), straight up passing two current bushes.

Climb up to the west end of The Meadows.

Climb Meadows finish to the top.

Same start as Wiessner. Climb up up right then left to the base of two broken columns. Climb the left-side of the lower column, then the left-hand crack to the top of a column with a bush and belay.

Climb the jamcrack above.

Finish with "Durrance" or another variation.

Start doing your calf raises now because this one's a real pumper!  Mosey up some easier terrain, placing a few cams as you go toward the first bolt on this wild ride.  Clip it and begin the never-ending pure stemming adventure up this beautiful 120 degree obtuse shaft.  Incredible stemming on delicately rippling walls, intensely engaging full body tension, and the occasional tiny edge or nubbin for the hands and feet are what await you.  Climb past 9 bolts until the seam on the right opens wide enough to take gear.  Don't worry though, the intensity of this rig is far from over!  Several tiny pieces from ballnuts and RPs lead to micro cams and eventually to fingers.  Clip the anchor and give those calves a rest!

This climb is pretty sick, I highly recommend checking it out.  No moves harder than 5.11, but no moves easier either.

I have not done the second pitch 5.11c finger crack but it looks pretty good.  The P1 anchor would be a FULLY hanging belay.

P1 (5.5-5.8): From the initial belay bolts either climb slightly left and up an awkward wide crack, or move up and right about 15 feet until you can traverse back left.  Once on the ledges above the belay you have three choices:  (a) Go left around the base of the short pillar and climb up its left side, then continue up the left side of the small pillar above to a bolted belay station (5.5, combines Sundance and Wiessner). (b) Climb up through the stemming box, either stemming or jamming the crack on the left.  Step left when you have a chance, and climb the left side of the upper pillar (5.6, Wiessner proper).  (c) Climb up the stemming box.  Instead of moving left, continue straight up the hand/fist crack to the top of the upper pillar (5.8, aka "Extended Wiessner").

P2 ("5.7"):  From the belay move down & right a few feet until you can fall across the gap and into the Wiessner Crack.  Keep reminding yourself that Fritz climbed this with a bowline around the waist, no sticky rubber shoes, with no pro and no beta, on sight!  You may want to take your #6 camalot and walk it up as you chicken-wing and heel-and-toe.  It is also possible to stay outside of the crack and use it as a side-pull/layback.  Stop struggling once you get to the belay bolts at the top of the pillar.

You could link p2 and p3 with a 60m rope, but then you'd miss the fun of watching your partner struggle up behind you.

P3 (5.5):  Continue up the wide crack/chimney directly above the pillar.  At the platform above, walk to the back and climb the cracks on the right until you are on the same ledge as the upper Meadows Rappel.  Build your own belay here for best rope management, using medium nuts.

It's best to use this approach when there are no climbers on durrance and during the winter when the normal approach has snow and ice on it. The right crack has better pro but either one is run out.

Approach Via the Durrance approach and head left at the cliff base to reach the SW corner.  At the SW corner there are a number of shorter colunms that reach a height of perhaps 100'.

The dihedral at the right hand edge of the right-most of these colums, beginning as a ever-steepening slab is "Rangers Are People Too."  The next crack left of this, on the left side of the right-most short column, is the fist pitch of Driect SouthWest.

P1: (5.7, 80')Climb the crack described above for 80' to a ledge with a fixed belay.

P2: (5.11b, 100')This is the route 6 pillars to the right of the dark, left-facing dihedral at the right hand side of the attached photo.Step right on the ledge and get into a left-facing corner with an off-fingers to fingers in the corner, the crux is 25' fromt he top or so- more sustained than it is technically difficult.  Belay from the fixed anchors.  A single 60M or 70M rope should get you down in 2 raps from here.

P3: (5.9, 150')You need 2 ropes to continue...  I have not done the 3rd pitch, but reportedly the climb continues up a crack on the left for a short while before traversing right, to keep the difficulty at 5.9... then continues up for 150' total.  From there you can climb one of a few easier systems to reach the top (5.7, 70')

If you like off-width, then this route is for you.  The crack opens to fists, arcs left and joins "Black-Jones Direct".  Bulge your biceps... 'cuz it's a grunt.

A great face climb up the Wiessner Column.  Sustained throughout with a handful of cruxy moves and occasional rests.  There are a few loose flakes to beware of.  Overall it is excellent.

Belay from a bolted station a ways below the column and solo up wide cracks (or bring some large pieces) to the first bolt.  Resist the temptation to stem to the neighboring columns!

An aesthetic nail-up on the steepest aspect of the Tower. The line follows the shallow corner between Kirk-Sanders West Face Classic and Blade Runner, surmounting a double-roof down low on the first pitch.

P1: Easy free-climbing for about 50' leads into aiding. The initial bit to the double-roof is rather tricky, with cams and assorted pins. The crux section is the roof and the following 20', which requires some tricky, marginal placements. After the crux, the crack opens into an excellent blade seam forever, with some arrow work near the top. The first pitch was strung into one 80m lead, with the belayer scrambling up to the highest possible stance and the leader maxing the 70m rope. Build a pin/cam belay when the rope runs out, about 15' shy of where the crack fades out. 260' 5.6 A3

P2: Clean aid on cams from the belay, tension traverse right into Blade City, nail it a bit, tension traverse right again into Blue Stem Skyway, and follow it on clean aid to a large belay ledge. 50' A2

Space Ranger starts at a fixed pin above a tree on the far right side of the lower Southwest Buttress. The curving line of Rangers are People Too is just to the left.

The first section of Space Ranger is uncharacteristic of the main line, and climbs average quality rock (with average protection) to an obvious flake stance at the base of a soaring dihedral. The remainder of the route takes the brilliant thin crack up this stemming corner, with several footholds providing rests. Numerous thin sections are made easier using face holds around the arete on the right. Protection is excellent provided you brought enough RP's, and like many Tower lines, double nines provide a bit more confidence in pulling up a big loop for the next clip.  Near the top of the corner, good TCU's protect a traverse left to a hanging flake crack (small Camalots) that leads to the anchors.

Although marred by the first section of average rock, the bulk of this route is outstanding climbing. There is no distinct crux move, but a long series of superb moves with sinker gear that goes in quickly.

The Durrance route is listed as one of the 50 classic climbs in North America. A 4-6 pitch route that tops out at the summit. The climb is mainly off-width and hand-crack with a few spots of chimney. You also get the choice of working a small traverse. Don't forget to register at the Visitor's Center before and after the climb. This is a crowded route and a few minutes can mean the difference between success and failure. Either plan to arrive around 5:30 AM or, if you're fast and have headlamps, try to start in the late afternoon.

Note: All directional references in this description are accurate if you are facing the rock.

Approach: You have two choices here. To walk to the base of the 1st pitch... hike up the trail from the Visitor's Center and head to the right at the Tower trail. Almost immediately head left on a faint trail that angles up toward the base of the tower. Continue up an easy ramp to the base of the leaning column and the start of the Durrance. To climb up to the base of the 1st pitch... Continue hiking on the concrete Tower trail to the South side of the tower. You'll come to a clear path just past the leaning column as you look up. Take this path past the registration reminder sign for 5 minutes to the base of the tower and the 1st pitch of Wiessner's route. Climb this 5.4 crack to a couple of bolts about 100 feet off of the deck. Traverse left (if facing the wall) on easy 4th class to the base of the leaning column.

Pitch 1, Leaning Column (70 feet): Ascend 20 feet up a low angle crack that quickly turns vertical. Continue up another 25 feet of off-width to a horizontal crack with a piton. Enter the chimney behind the pillar and ascend another 25feet and exit onto the top of the column to a nice belay ledge with bolts.

Pitch 2, Durrance Crack (70 feet): A two crack system heads straight up for about 70 feet. The left crack is hand-width and accepts good pro for about 50 feet. The right crack is off-width and contains a large chockstone. Good pro can be found in the left hand crack until you get to the chockstone at about 55 feet. From the chockstone, depending on how tall you are, you must commit to the right crack and face the crux of the pitch. Save your #4 Camalot or equivalent to protect the crux. If you do not have anything this size, you'll probably be climbing the last 15 or so feet of this crack high above your last piece. Exit to your right onto the belay ledge with bolts. 1 Piton available about 15 feet up.

Pitch 3, Cussin' Crack (30 feet): Climb a face and off-width combo to a small ledge 20 feet up. Protect this with a number #4 or #5 stopper or equivalent on the flake to the left of the crack. From the small ledge traverse right on a 1-foot ramp to an easy and well-protected hand crack. You also have the option of continuing straight up from the small ledge in an off-width... but the right side crack is far easier. Exit onto a nice belay ledge with bolts. Be sure to run some slings from your pro to reduce rope drag if you go to the right side crack.

Pitch 4, Flake Crack (40 feet): Ascend obvious crack system on right side of huge belay ledge. A number of flakes protruding from the crack (hence the name) and some face holds for the feet will make this quite enjoyable after the off-widths lower on the route. Exit via off-width (go figure) with bomber hands onto yet another great belay ledge with bolts. Watch for some loose rock on this pitch. 1 piton is available about 15 feet up.

Pitch 5, Chockstone Crack (40 feet): Head up into a large off-width or chimney, depending on how big you are. The first 20 feet are fairly basic. The top half of this pitch is a little harder and finishes with an overhanging boulder that you must clear to exit. It will get the blood flowing, but has some decent hands to keep it relatively tame. Exit to a large belay ledge. For the first time on the route... you may be able to find some shade in a large crack on your left. Belay your second from the bolts and prepare for the jump traverse. Note: you can look down and right to spot the bolts for the second rap that you may use for your descent, they are a little harder to spot when rappelling, as they will be below you after your first rap from the summit.

Pitch 6, Jump Traverse (15 foot traverse): From the belay ledge on top of Chockstone crack, down-climb 5 feet to a small ledge. Traverse under a small roof to a horizontal finger crack. Traverse finger crack and reach back for the ledge that marks the _landing zone_ for the _jump_. Very few, if any, people actually jump on this pitch and it is not recommended. Most use the piton just around the roof to hold onto and keep the rating 5.6. If you eschew the piton, you earn a 5.8 rating for this move and the climb. Continue through a small tunnel (a nice shady spot to rest if you need it) right of the jump traverse and across the meadows to the far right crack system and climb 100 or so feet to the top. Some rope up for this section and some parties don't. Enjoy the summit.

Pitch 6 Variation, Bailey's Direct (150 feet): From the top of Chockstone crack, ascend up a 5.4 crack (left of the bolts) that goes back and forth between hands and off-width. Exit onto the summit. This finish avoids the jump traverse and has the aesthetic appeal of climbing directly to the summit. Note that the right option includes more difficult off-width moves about 40 or 50 feet off the belay.

Rappel: From the summit head back towards the top of Bailey's direct and down-climb a few feet to a rappel station. Your first rap will put you back in the meadows near the jump traverse. Down-climb to your right to some bolts below and right of the jump traverse. Make three more raps down the Bowling Alley a few hundred feet right of the Durrance route and just right of Wiessner to the base and go get some water. All raps require 2 ropes. Be careful to always rap over the nose of each pillar and NOT in the crack or else your rope will be eaten and get stuck.

Be prepared to answer all manner of questions from tourists as you race for the water fountain.

Bring lots of water and conserve it.

A truly classic climb.

Wow! A lead of this rig would be very impressive. 150' of non-stop, hard stemming up the flared chute. Having many #5 and #6 HB Rp's would be helpful. The more desperate climbing is in the first half. Catch a decent rest at the 1/4" buttonhead, halfway up, then place gear in the left crack after that. A second pitch continues off the hanging belay for another 140', goes at 11a, and takes more hand size gear.

Approach Via the Durrance approach and head left at the cliff base to reach the SW corner.  At the SW corner there are a number of shorter columns that reach a height of perhaps 100'.

The dihedral at the right hand edge of the right-most of these columns, beginning as an ever-steepening slab is "Rangers Are People Too."  The next crack left of this, on the left side of the right-most short column, is the fist pitch of Direct SouthWest.

P1: (5.10-, 100' (?)Locate the climb as described above and start up the slabby initial section (easy) and into the right-facing crack & corner with thin jams and stems.  Climb this to a good ledge with a fixed belay. Although I am not certain a single 60M gets you to the ground, it is close enough to be a mere scramble for sure.  The route is not very sustained.

A very nice route that deserves more traffic.  Although short, it is quite fun.

Begin in the low angle crack just right of "Billie Bear Cranks the Rad".  Delicate small stopper placements where the crack thins and the wall steepens will thrill the soul!  Climb through the broken section to a double bolt anchor above "Billie Bear".

P1. Follow first pitch of Direct SW, (5.7) 120'.

P2. Direct aid up a clean seam with some pods leads to an anchor on the left (A2+) 80'. anchors for '411 Southwest' rappel

Had the pleasure of doing this route with Frank and "Lovely Liana" just a few days after their first ascent.  The first half of the route involves INCREDIBLY fun face moves.  The second half begins with fingers to AWKWARD hands.

VERY FUN ROUTE!!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Durrance Approach