Alas, where to begin...  The rap-bolting, the toprope rehearsal, the 75lb-flake trundled, the poison oak blisters, the static line (used to reach the anchors from above) stolen while on the route cleaning, the partial pinkpoint first ascent- It's all true!   

  But let me bear the burden of shame so that you may climb this incredible route!  Behold!  

  First climbed as the A2 second pitch of New Wave (a forgotten route stripped of its hangers), this route ascends the apex of the North Face.  The most logical start climbs the first pitch of Peach Cling (10-?) to an anchor at about 50ft.   

  Continue up the broken-up, but reasonably solid orange rock using underclings and small feet, clipping a new bolt (recently replaced- a RE-bolt, NOT a retrobolt- get your terms straight!).   

  BOOM! Now it's on. A couple of solid cams protect a lock off to a couple of unlikely crimps and a good left hand notch that allows one to clip the bolt (OK- this was a retrobolt- I totally put a bolt in an old aid line that nobody did). 

  A tricky sequence sets up either a brutal high step while tipping backwards, or a short leap to a jug. (You are actually behind your belayer at this point! This is quite an exciting crux!) Reel this move in and bask in the runout, but easy moves above. (Edit: as of June '14 I placed an additional bolt after the crux sequence. The original ascent was more of a "headpoint" and would probably warrant a "R" rating if tried ground up. As it now stands, the route is a well-protected climb requiring a rack of gear with a few supplemental bolts.)   

  A good rest precedes the last, tricky sequence: engaging the final crack that leads to 30+ft of wildly exposed moves stemming the 5.7 dihedral high above I-84.   

  (route name credit to Pat McCarthy- connoisseur of archaic terms)

Skullduggery

Reckless Driver

Frodo's Journey

Gandalf's Grip

Dark Tower

Gandalf's Peach

Cindyrella

Peach Cling

Pipen's Direct

Traffic Court

Risky Business

Climb frodo's journey on the left side of the north wall, skip the anchors and head up a devious dihedral.  Once you're into the roof, attack the first crux to a lip jug.  Some 5.12 face moves just before the headwall requiring sidepulls and heel hooks.  Entering the final headwall, small crimping sidepulls and weird feet protect the chains with the final "crux".  It is a very large chance that you will fall on the last move at least once.  Grade not confirmed.

This is for the first pitch only, as we did not climb the upper two pitches. 

 This route starts to the right of Peach Cling in a wide crack behind a free-standing block.   Olson's book calls for gear to 3", but I liked having a #4 behind that block.  Get about waist high with the block, find some smaller gear, use good edges and underclings and begin moving left.  Follow the corner over a couple blocks up to the Peach Cling ledge and anchors.  Route is actually pretty fun, with thoughtful gear and some good moves.  The rock quality is generally very good, but some more traffic would make it more enjoyable.  Expect moss, dirt, lichen and some shrubbery.  Olson calls this first pitch 5.6, but that seems a bit soft to me. A decent alternative to access Risky Business or other options from the belay ledge.   

 The upper two pitches are listed in the book to go at 5.10a and 5.10c.

Line of bolts left of Traffic Court.  Clip the first bolt on traffic court and go left.  Commence through a intense sequence through a small roof.  Enter into a 5.8 slab for 3 bolts to an anchor left of traffic court.

This stunning line is one of the longest and best climbs at Broughton.  The climb is on the north face, facing the Columbia river and can be seen from highway 84.  

  It is usually done in 3 pitches but can be done as one pitch with a 60m rope if long runners are used. 

  Pitch 1:  5.9 The climb starts up a steep crack and then angles left onto the face through a few bolts.  Continue up through a small roof (crux) and onto an angled ledge and a 3 bolt belay.   

  Pitch 2:  5.8 Continue up a right facing dihedral until it angles to the right and forms a small stance.   

  Pitch 3:  5.7 The last pitch goes up a wide and sometimes dirty chimney.  Belay off a tree at the top. 

  Walk off to the left (east) or rap   -1 rap with 2 60m ropes or. . .   -2 raps down route 

This is not a new or independent route but a combination of the starting crack on Gandalf's Grip and the top half of Peach Cling's crack. In some ways, this is a more natural path than busting left towards the bolted face on GG's first pitch once the crack peters out.

 Start on Gandalf's Grip and climb until the crack ends (crux). Angle right on easy face holds for about ten feet (protectable) to join with the crack above New Wave & Peach Cling. Save some hand sized pieces of protection for this section. This easy crack is on a lower angle face that has lots of good edges. Follow the crack up as it angles slightly right until it ends at a nice belay ledge and bolted anchor.

 It seemed worthwhile to post information about this hybrid route as it has several elements which are rare to have on Broughton Bluff's gear protected, single pitch climbs: It is clean, easily protectable, fairly long, the falls are safe, goes at a moderate grade and is really fun.

Climb Gandalfs Grip crack straight up to the line of bolts up the overhung bulge. Jump from hold to hold to the crux of 2 finger crimps and throws.  Prepare to project.

A Great crack line 15ft right of Gandalf's.  Climb a stout finger crack to easy 5.8 climbing on a ledge.  Head out left above the bolted traverse to a small aid seam.  Very technical, Very sketchy, really fun.

Climb the same start of Traffic Court till a small ledge.  Go right on a leaning slab with a small crack.  Climb through a small roof (crux) to the bolt line of Gandalf's Grip. (2 bolts).

Start up left of Gandalf's Grip in a corner.  Clip a bolt, then travel up a left angle dihedral (crux).  Climb a slab with small nuts to a 8 foot overhanging headwall. Left goes to the Original anchors.  Right goes to Gandalf's Grip.

Risky Business starts at a nice belay ledge which is most easily accessed via Gandalf's Peach.  Climb out left from the belay on a series of large, sloping edges.  Round the corner and disappear from view of your belayer.  Move up past a fixed pin and make some long reaches to jugs.  After the piton the climb gets steeper though large jugs continue to appear at opportune times.  Pull up to the p2 anchor for Gandalf's Grip.  The second pitch of Risky Business starts by traversing right past the p3 dihedral of GG.  Get into the next dihedral over and head to the top.  From what I gather, p2 of RB is rarely done.  Keep an eye out for Poison Oak near the top.

This is the face that is visible from the highway. It contains the classic Gandalf's Grip and others.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (1) North Face