Start on hostage (obvious jug in the middle of the boulder) and traverse the lip to the right into Over the Hump day. New favorite line in the area.

Hump extension

Arete

Lithe Wire

Winter Seasoning

Faint Whimper

Ransom

Hostage

Over the Hump day

Failed Negotiations

Scar Face

The Starr Report

Bad Ideas

Start hanging on the obvious jug about 6ft off the ground with feet on a good wide edge underneath. Deadpoint up. Reach up for a juggy side-pull and adjust feet to catch a good rest if you need it. Play with feet and balance to be able to make crux moves to the lip.

Stand start left hand on sloper at head height, right hand on large undercling and paste a foot or two on. Fire to ledge(crux) then continue up arete and top out straight above. Clean fall zone. (lose large block to left off)

Start with smeary feet and lay back tension on right facing corner (block underneath and to the right are off). Follow corner up to a good edge and then get high feet to step up to a steep rail. Top out.

Sit start with hands in the left facing crack. Pull up to small but positive holds and continue up trending slightly right.

Climb the left side of the tall slab to the right of Winter Seasoning. Arete is on. Best not to fall once committed. A TR can be set up with trad gear if you are so inclined.

Start all the way back underneath the left arete of "Hostage" [V3] with hands underclung on the left arete and feet on the boulder to the left of hostage. Bump hands along the edge and keep tension through the feet to work your way out from under the overhang. Once out from under you can use a layback approach or sink really good kneebars in between the boulders to work your hands farther up the arete. Top out on top of the boulder to the left of "Hostage".

Start with right hand undercling and left on the lip. Use heel hook and follow slopers up to sharp right hold around the corner to gain the arete to an easier top out.

Start on top of the block that Hostage, and Starr Report are on. Climb the left side of the knobby slab using the crack and face holds. Do not fall. A TR can be set up with trad gear if you are so inclined.

Start on good left edge and low side-pull right with good feet. Arete is off. Move up the face.

Start on double undercling and bad feet then move up on small edges and crimps to jug finish. Dyno at any point for the same grade.

Start on the right side of the slab above Hostage and The Starr Report. Use cracks, the arete, and concerning sandy feet to climb up. Do not fall. A TR can be set up with trad gear if you are so inclined.

Shaded, the largest, tallest croup of boulders that follows downhill for 200 feet.

Description

Routes in Spearhead Boulder