Begin with a tricky start with some hollow rock to C1. Move up and left to C2. Follow the right-trending seam with good holds past two clips to the nice ledge. Gain the ledge, and climb the cruxy three clip face with good hand holds and really tricky feet to a smallish break. Climb the upper face for 4 clips with great right hand rails, reachy pockets, and some cruxy moves to the chained anchors.

Scorpions

Donkey Xote

Pet Peeves

Pet Detective

Jungle Boogie

Catitude

Petting Zoo

Duck Soup

Jurassic Parking Lot

Game Warden

Zoo York Kitty

It's a Crab World

Monkey Jungle

A hard, sustained start with tricky, sandy feet, and cruxy pockets gets you to C1. Sequential feet and hands get you to C2. Nice moderate climbing on the right slabby face and left crack gets you to and past C3 & 4 to a smallish stance at C5. The second crux of two clips climbs edges to an unnerving block on the left to a great no hands rest. The final crux climbs the upper headwall on great pockets, edges, and hidden righty sidepulls to some hollow flakes to the anchors.

Start the route on very sharp flakes that quickly transition into a series of small ledges past 4 bolts. Consider extending the 3rd bolt, which is a little out of line due to hollow rock. At about the midway point, you can stand on a massive ledge full of loose rock. Get your rest here, and then begin the vertical climb past 5 more bolts on pockets, crimps, sidepulls, an arete, and cracks. Once you reach the anchors, you might want to reclimb the top half of the route - it's just that good (IMHO).

Climb the short corner with 2 clips to gain the top of the flake. Move up to the blond face. Climb up and right to a great rest out right. Gain the beautiful upper face on killer edges and killer pockets to the chained anchors.

Climb some sharp rock to C1. Climb up and left to and past C2 & 3 to a small stance. Continue up and left with great holds and follow the corner on the left with thinker moves and sustained .9 climbing for 2 clips to a big ledge. A few easier moves get you to the anchors.

Start with the face on the right and block on the left to a stance out left. Move to the face with nice edges, pockets, and feet up to the reachy anchors.

Gain the red face to C1. Move straight up to and past C2 & C3 to under the roof. Clip C4 and move under then over the roof to a close C5 on good hands holds but not so good feet. Strenuous reaches gets you to C6. Climb straight up on big holds with steepening rock and a final crux to the chained anchors.

Start on top of the block. Move up to the red face with some hard sustained fingery climbing for three clips to a smallish ledge.

Continue on some easier climbing to the upper face on nice pockets and edges to the anchors.

Jam the vertical crack in the corner for 4 clips to a dusty ledge. Figure out the next wide crack with good face holds out left and right hollow-sounding rock to another ledge. Climb straight up the steep finishing crack on nice pockets, a great flat lefty ledge with chockstones, and some tricky feet to the anchors.

Climb great flat holds up the reddish face to C1. A lefty, not-so-good crack and right face moves gets you up to C3. Continue with sustained climbing to a brief rest under C6. Move right and over the bulge with nice, hidden, smallish pockets and then great stone on the right side of the bulge. Climb the sustained upper black face to the chained anchors.

Climb big holds to C1. Climb the long, hollow sounding flake to a great stance out left. Move up and right through the short, black slab to the steeper headwall. Cruise great holds through this cruxy section, then go up the short corner with a bit of a run to another great stance. The final upper face with three clips involves some thought provoking moves on to the chained anchors near the top of the cliff line.

Climb a slabby start to C1. Move up and right to C2. Climb the tricky mini-groove to reachy sharp rock to a spacious ledge. Clip C6, go straight up on good holds, and finish with a short run to the anchors.

Climb nice liebacky climbing or use the left face and long flake on the right for 4 clips. Move to the spacious ledge at C5. Continue up with tricky climbing past 2 clips to another ledge. Move straight up for 3 clips with some sustained moves to the chained anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Zoo at the Far Side