The Moat

Dorothy's Crack

Heartless

The Wizard

Over the Rainbow

Strawman

Face climb for 15 feet to reach the crack. From there, climb the fun handcrack to the anchors. Lower off.

Great moderate on the wall. Crux was mostly finding holds. Can get pumpy if this is your max grade.

A classic stemming problem on the left end of the Oz formation. Originally done on all gear; the line has received 3 retrobolts to protect the upper stemming crux. You will likely welcome the bolts while on route, as you imagine the FA party trying to place dubious micro stoppers from tenuous stances.

The line starts with a bouldery finger crack and flake, protected easily by a small stopper placed high overhead off the deck. Some easier crack and face climbing leads up to a steep round corner. Get in some good gear at the end of the crack (0.75, 1 camalot) and work your way up into the stem/seams. Continue up beautiful, technical stemming for about 30 feet to the anchors.

An amazing face climb that gets slightly steeper the higher you get. Awesome moves up thin crimps, with fairly good clipping

holds, on definitely the best quality rock in the Hills, makes

this route 1 of my top 3 best in the Hills.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Oz Rock - East Face