A very powerful crimp problem. Stand start on two small incuts. Pull on and make a move up before dynoing out left to a crimp. Latch it good and come in briefly before continuing up a few more moves. Drop off from the jug or downclimb leftwards.

Thunderbird

Southwest Arete

Slipstream

North Face Direct

Go Granny Ho

Mystery

West Corner

Too Tall To Fall

Magnetic North

SE Arete

Essential Peabody

Baburre

Direction

Center Direct

Go Granny Go

Go Granny Go  Right Finish (V5)

Tackles the belly on the north face of Grandma Peabody straight on. Begin directly under the bulge with both hands in the large undercling. Hard pulls (made easier with some foot tricks) lead to a small crimp or gaston and a grainy undercling. Make a brutal deadpoint to latch a thin, glassy crimp, then slap out left to huecos and good patina. Continue as for North Face Direct if you please, or drop off.

This often photographed arete ascends one of the tallest boulders in the country, and is a classic buttermilking experience not to be missed.

Start on the face about 10 feet right of the arete, then trend left to the arete and up to an airy perch.  Move right following the lip patina to a memorable rock-over with about 35 feet of air under you.

Now find your way down the backside (more or less North east).

Sit start at the underclings, then make big moves left to a hueco and right to a jug.

This is right side of the awesome playground of giant huecos on the steep side of Grandma Peabody. Swing around on massive, perfect jugs until the boulder starts to roll back to slabby terrain, then downclimb or continue boldly to the top.

Sit start at the good left-facing flake. Climb up and left to underclings. Make a move out left to either a good crimp or gaston and then make a big move out right and finish as for Go Granny Go.

Awesome line starting down and center on the face with the amphitheater. Sit start and traverse right on thin edges with some interesting footwork and link up with the top of Go Granny Ho. Super cool moves!

The crux would be the last two moves. It ends on  the jugs 11 feet off of the ground. The problem doesn't topout although it does have the potential to be extended to larger flakes higher up the boulder.

Miles Adamson sending:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkJ9DJcgi9g

This has got to be one of the classiest lines in Bishop, climbing the pristine north face of the boulder. You could say it's contrived, but only because it's possible to go straight up the jugs to the left from the start. Once you're on the problem, it's as independent a line as any. This one starts on jugs to the left of Center Direct and traverses right via the 'finishing jug' of that problem to a series of edges and crimps midway up the wall. The crux is just high enough to get one's attention and involves a technical heel hook and a committing lock-off from a small crimp. The next few moves leading to the patina jugs are easier but still require some power. Tiptoe carefully up the slab above; you'll be soloing at this point. There are a couple of options. It's probably easiest starting a little further left from the uppermost patina, but you can more or less go straight up from where you finish the problem as well. Either way is a bit bold, but there are just enough positive smears to make it reasonable though insecure. Amazing! You can also climb into this line via Center Direct or, if you're really pulling hard, Direction.

This line is either a 5.10 solo or toprope.

An awesome, bouldery move down low pulling onto the arete (over sloping ground and a pile of cheater stones) is the physical crux, but the top is what packs the punch. I've onsight freesoloed several 5.9s and 10s, particularly in Eldorado Canyon, Colo., and I had to take a long pause and some big breaths before the sequential, steep-slab finish on this one.

This route provided one of my most rewarding experiences during my four-day visit, but I won't say I'm going to climb it again any time soon.

Go more or less straight up many huecos to a hole and finish up the slab to the summit, or downclimb.

Traverse from the left side of the boulder's overhanging face to the right side, staying low. Drop below the bulge using underclings and make hard crimp moves to join and finish up "Go Granny Go".

Sit start the same as for Center Direct, instead of heading out left, head straight up to link up with The North Face.

This classic problem lies on the right side of the northwest face of Grandma Peabody. Sit start about eight feet left of the West Corner problem. Crimp up thin golden patina edges to some incut rails that lead up and right. From the end of the rails, move straight up to the crescent moon shaped hold above (either sidepull or gaston) and make a big reach up to jugs (crux). Continue up and right on big holds to a pair of jugs about eleven feet up (same finishing holds as the West Corner.) Drop off from here. It may be possible to top out by continuing ten more feet up the juggy rails, then rocking onto the grainy slab above. This finish may or may not have been done. (V? R/X)

Sit start (same as Go Granny Go) at a good flake and climb up and right to good holds, and then further right to the arete. Continue up to the good incuts at about 10 feet. Climb down or drop off.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Grandma Peabody Boulder