Grade and difficulty from the Roper guide, whose description of the climb starts “Rope up below a very prominent, left-facing open book on the right side of the face. From the top of the book…”

My personal thoughts on the book itself are that if you climb the book when it is dry, channel the spirit of 1968 (no cams & no sticky rubber), believe that the difficulty is 5.9 PG13, bring double ropes, a modern rack, and bail gear/slings then you will have no reason to be disappointed.

I gave it an extra star for historical value.

I was so happy I had a comfort rack.

Right Side

Left Side

Out on Highway 61

King of the Road

Thunder Road

LBJ Ate Here

US Rt 1

Rt 1 Business District

“It can be quite easily done; out on highway 61” Bob Dylan

P2 Up the Right Side corner system 20 or 30 feet. Step left onto the face riven with left leaning crack/flake systems. Dance up these to a pretty good ledge; quality, off-balance climbing.

P3 Continue up the left leaning crack systems, eventually stepping left around an outside corner; then up and left to trees at the bottom of the upper bowl.

Escape:

2nd/3rd class to the top of the upper bowl then 5.6ish climbing, either in the center of the headwall or just left of the chimney/ramp system on the (climbers') left end of the headwall

Grade and difficulty as per the Roper guide; we encountered no climbing more difficult than 5.9.

The absence of rappel tat suggests that either no one climbs here or those who do climb make it to the top more often than is the case on The Right Side. We found the climbing to be enjoyable and adequately protected; the chimney is a treat at the grade; don’t let the leader wear a pack in there. The Roper guide says to climb on the left, then on the right, then up the chimney, then escape left under a roof. I’m not good at following directions, so take the belay stances in the photo with a grain of salt; and dyslexia—I escaped to the right at the end.

P1 Climb up to the crack; up the crack; at the top of the flake, follow it left; step left from the top of the flake into the bizarre black water-streak corner/overhangs. Up these, tricky step left; up overlaps and the black corner until it steepens. Step right and up cracks to the huge ledge system. Belay at the base of the striking crack that gets wide and leads to a left-facing corner in the steep headwall. 5.8

P2 Climb the crack. Clamber up flakes/cracks to a stance at the base of the awesome corner. Take a deep breath and fire up the corner. At its top, step right to a belay stance. 5.10

P3 Traverse right and up; step right around an outside corner to gain a steep gully system; up and across this to trees in the upper bowl.

Escape: 2nd/3rd class to the upper bowl headwall; then 5.6ish climbing, either in the center of the headwall or just left of the chimney/ramp system on the left of the headwall

P1 Roughly follow the major crack line right of

LBJ Ate Here

; diverge from the crack system as the desire for fine gear, moves, or rock quality grabs your fancy; belay at a spacious ledge on the left. 180’

P2 Head left to the start of the hand/fist crack on the left side of a massive flake; up the crack—crux; up to low angle bowl above. Belay; scramble right to trees and sand/talus slope. 100’

Climb the dual crack systems. The obvious headwall presents the significant difficulty. Sadly, the rock quality at the crux is not top-notch as the rest of the climb is. The cracks top out at the bottom of the rightmost upper gully system; scramble to the trees and talus.

P1 Climb the crack; step right; traverse left between a roofs/overlaps on positive fingertip crimps to return to the crack; when the crack becomes inconvenient, traverse hard left on good foot rail; then up and left to a belay in a shallow V-notch.

P2 Up the left side of the V, up and right past a small pine tree, traverse hard right, then up featured rock to a left-leaning ramp/crack system; up the ramp; at its top, up steeper rock to ledges.

Escape options include:

•4th class to the bushes in a long, slightly rising traverse to the right

•4th class to the upper bowl, 2nd/3rd class to the headwall, then 5.6ish climbing, either in the center of the headwall or just left of the chimney/ramp system on the left of the headwall

An alternate start to US Rt 1.

Climb the crack through the overlaps (move a little left for the 2nd overlap, crux at 3rd). Continue up the crack. At good holds on the right in a shallow, left facing corner, step right and up cracks to a belay seat in a shallow V-notch.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in East Face