An arete route that starts with face moves. Traverse up and left for the first bolt. Make a mantle move, then up and right to gain arete. Use gear between first and second bolt. Route finishes on sustained arete moves.

You can top rope this route after leading the 5.6 crack plus a few moves up and left

Annie's Arete

People (bear huggy arete)

Guiding Light

Super Hands (aka Ranger Crack)

Dagger

Dark Star

Granny Crack

Nanbeeb

Powerslave

The Podium

Blackout

Lightweight Guides

Ten Years After

The Podium is a good climb to gain entry into the 5.10d rating, even though the crux is found about a body length above the last piece of pro.  Begin by climbing moderate crack with good pro to just below a roof.  Traverse right below the roof and place bomber pro about halfway through the traverse.  Climb up and right through the crux crimpers to the anchor.  The crux is a little heady and you will have to have the "go for it" attitude, but the crimps are all positive and the rating eases up as you get closer to the anchor.

This is the arete that's in between guiding light and lightweight guides. Hard slapping on slopes of the arete with tricky and technical footwork. Can be TRd after leading lightweight guides.

Shortly after reaching the amphitheatre, one will notice a nice 80' corner. This is "Guiding Light". Climb the smooth crack in the corner to a two bolt anchor.

Rappel 80'.

Stellar crack that is perfect hands nearly the entire way up, before narrowing to fingers.  Plentiful face holds, and excellent feet.  ASCA 2 bolt anchor.

I understand these amplitheater climbs are not in the current version of the guide because the park service is trying to keep climbing a little lower profile right next to the falls, their biggest attraction?

Dagger is the striking line to the left of Super hands. Climb past two bolts to enter the corner system/ chimney. Thin hands and stemming with an occasional chimney move will get you to a two bolted anchor. The climbing felt very sustained at 5.10+ the entire way. You can rappel with a single sixty meter rope but youll have to down climb for about five feet.

First twenty feet are a bit grassy but it protects well. Step left on dike and continue straight up left facing flake until it eventually fades out. Step right on thin edges (crux) to a two bolt anchor (needs replacing).

A fun clean crack. You can top rope Annie's Arete 10a, by leading up and left after the anchors

Wonderful route. Excellent crack climbing with every different technique.

This route follows a slightly curving, left facing corner to the left of the waterfall.

Climb this corner to its end then move horizontally left (crux) to a belay.

This route is easy to spot since it have a cool looking roof and looks harder than it is. It is more difficult to spot top anchors, but they exist, good and you need to spent some time to find them from the ground.

Good long line. The photos on this site by Blitzo and SketchySam  very inspiring to climb this route.

The crux is pulling the roof. You can do it by split and reaching for holds on the  face, or climb straight in overhanging fist crack on left side of the roof (what I did).

Climb the corner/crack to the right of "Guiding Light" to the two bolt anchor.

Up left of the falls and right of a large, loose alcove is this fine crack climb.

Climb the crack to a two bolt anchor.

Rappel 80 feet.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Falls Amphitheater