A variation to get to crow's nest, to the right of Sentinel Buttress and to the left of Super Direct. Follow the steep face to the right of the buttress corner until you get to the Crow's nest.

Much better climbing to get to the crows nest than Sentinel Buttress!

Big Jugs

Super Direct

Variation of Historical Interest

Buttress Arete?

Sentinel Buttress

Great Escape

A fantastic introduction to leading trad in North Carolina.

P1

Starts at the foot of the buttress and heads up to the Crow's Nest (many variations). Terrain is easier to the left side of the face but gear placements are more plentiful to the right. Choose your adventure.

P2

Walk onto the big ledge on the west side of the buttress.  Follow the obvious notch for 90' of cruiser climbing and good exposure, traverse right and up under the bulge to top out. Walk off or rap back to the Crow's Nest (a 60m barely makes it), and then to the ground.

Climb the right-facing crack around an over-hang.  Seems like the hard move is getting started.  Wander up following a crack system then right around a roof then back left to a tree ledge.  Belay.  Climb a chimney or a number of easy variations to the "Crow's Nest."

This route came to my attention by way of the old Kelly guide. There is an unnamed dashed line with a "5.5" annotation running between Sentinel Buttress and Great Escape; the route passes through a feature referred to as the Little Crow's Nest. A similar unnamed route is shown in the Select guide with the note "several variations of historical interest". This description is my interpretation of these bread crumbs.

Begin on black rock in a short dihedral and then traverse right to gain a large ledge.

From this ledge, instead of going straight up the wide crack (you won't be carrying enough #6s and Big Bros to protect it), instead go up and right to gain another ledge.

From this second ledge you'll want to traverse even further to the right, aiming for a steep crack. Good gear protects committing (for the grade) moves. From this point you will angle slowly up and left until you gain the tree ledge Kelly labels as the Little Crow's Nest. If you didn't bring an 8' runner with which to sling the tree, you might want to stop and belay from here.

From the Little Crow's Nest, you've got options. The Select guide shows 3 arrows pointing up in various directions. I continue by moving up and to the right across mildly slabby terrain. The grade backs off a bit through this section, but so do the gear options. Eventually you will reach a horizontal feature that accepts gear from above. Maybe place two pieces just to be sure.

Next comes the crux of the route; a steep and slightly awkward corner. Thankfully, gear options start to become more plentiful at this point.

The rest of the route is straightforward climbing on incut holds with ample protection. Once you reach the height of the main Crow's Nest (you'll be 20' to the right), build an anchor in the abundant horizontals.

An optional

third pitch

will take you all the way to the top.

I'm not sure whether this route exists already, but I couldn't find it on the guidebook. From the crow's nest, instead of going up Sentinel Buttress second pitch, traverse right and follow the arete to the right of sentinel. Very good climbing, good protection and awesome exposure!

Well-protected, powerful crux near the ground. After the crux I protected out left for the next move. Then go up through the smooth dihedral to gain good pro. Move left under roof until you get to weakness and head up to crow's nest belay/rap anchor.

Note - The original attempt was to do one aid move using a cliff hanger on a flake just above the middle of the roof. The flake immediately broke loose while testing it. The original route passed to the right of the roof, not the left.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Center Buttress