This route heads up the left side of a featured slab following 3 bolts to a large ledge. Above the ledge, follow 2 more bolts up steeper face to a 2 bolt anchor.

Head Waggle

Air Hump

Black Beauty

Go Crazy

Popcorn Prostitute

Dewclaw Dexterity

Just a Small Town Dog

The Darkness

This was the first route put up in this zone and was used as access to bolt the adjacent slab. It has a distinctly alpine feel with the traversing and lichen. It would be good practice for climbing in the San Juans. Begin up an easy slab, and dive deep into the darkness to place some wide gear. It's also possible to clip the bolt on

Dewclaw Dexterity

before continuing up. Carry on up easy terrain traversing up and right on 5.easy with some Class 4 to a 2 bolt anchor that is shared with

Head Waggle

and

Go Crazy

.

This is an odd and awkward route that was difficult to rate. It's created by the convergence of two overhanging walls - one with a thin splitter and one with an offwidth. The more time you spend on the thin splitter, the harder it is. For the 5.12 burn, stay on the thin splitter. Watch out for some junky rock on the right wall.

Black Beauty is the best and most difficult route in The Playground. It climbs up a black water streak following a seam/crack with two bolts. The bottom half is sustained and burly, don’t forget to use the arete. The crux for me was placing gear between the first two bolts, get creative with your body English.

Go Crazy begins up an easy slab following a water streak. Clip a bolt and pull up onto a tooth-like feature following a flared crack. Plug in some gear, clip another bolt, and arrive on a spacious ledge. Follow two more bolts up steeper terrain on the right side of the water groove to the anchor.

This is a fun and mellow crack climb that begins in a steep, loose corridor with

Air Hump

. Start on a slab with a 1.5" splitter that trends up and right into the corner over a flake. Jam and layback the corner up to a two bolt anchor that is shared with

Air Hump

.

This is a pretty fun little route that shares its start with The Darkness.  Begin up an easy slab to gain the "Dewclaw".  Hand traverse up and right on the hollow but solid claw and clip a bolt.  Pull onto the claw and plug in a 0.4 Camalot in a constriction for the crux.  Layback and jam up the flared crack to easier terrain and a two bolt anchor.

Small Town Dog has the best straight in jamming and real crack climbing in The Playground. Steer clear of the big cantilevered block just left and up from the start, it's chocked in there, just tread lightly. Follow the right crack in the corner with great gear and jams. Make a crack switch to the left, and climb fingers/thin hands to the chains.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Playground