Lots of big holds, lots of big rests.  Climb the Hueco over a bulge.  Bring a coffee for those no hands rests--don't be afraid to get up in that hueco and shake em out.

Friend

Psychobilly

Hips Don't Lie (aka Punch Drunk)

Burros Don't Gamble

M & M

Adoption

Idiot Parade (aka Need to Rest)

Nightmare on Crude Street

Burros Might Fly

She's Deadly

Michael Angelo

The Heavy Hitter

This route starts out climbing a right leaning crack  (crux) and continues through some large huecos and ledges.  In the Handren guidebook, this route is referred to as "Need to Rest," but Mike's original name was Idiot Parade.

This route is awesome!  Probably one of the top four routes in the corridor if you can climb at this grade. Climb the easy holds up to the third bolts and then crimp your way to a great left handed undercling. This will require smearing you feet on the way up. There is a two finger pocket for your right hand, followed by a few more crimps as you move upward. The top section to the anchors is relatively easy climbing after the crux.

Climb up nice edges and sloping huecoes to a right trending seam/crack.  Pull over a small lip (crux) and climb varnish crimps to chains.

Burros Don't Gamble is the second route on the right (lower level) of the Black Corridor.  It has a tree just to the right of the route if I remember correctly.  Climb through cool huecos clipping 7 or 8 bolts, passing the crux down low.  Rap from a fixed anchor.

Just to the right of The Heavy Hitter 5.10c and between two small trees is a relatively new route called M & M that goes at about 5.11-. Cruxy from the third to the fourth bolt and a steep finish to the anchors. It's still a bit chossy from he fourth to the seventh bolt but it should clean up with traffic.

Climb starts next to a tree and the new wag bag dispenser. The route everyone misses and confuses with burros don't gamble. Approx 80 feet long. This climb is better than it appears lots of fun sequences and interesting holds. Some decent rests between thin technical climbing.

One of the better climbs in the corridor - It's not loose like the guide indicates.  This climbs the huge hueco system directly across from the Bon- climbs.  Crux is a tough step right about halfway up.

Descent moves up descent rock. Climb the thin edges after the ramp, and run it out across a flake to the fourth bolt. 

  Both 'Burros' climbs receive afternoon sun so plan to climb them when you're looking for some rays!  =)

The first clip can easily be clipped while you undercling in the large alcove, and the second after climbing out of it onto a tilted ledge. The next move is an obvious muscly sidecling with a really high left foot. It's pretty well protected because the third bolt is above the move. After the move you reach both arms over the hump and scramble to a larger ledge. The fourth bolt is an awkward clip, and I suggest clipping it from a single step above the ledge. Your right foot is on a slope, and there are two extremely chalked but solid sideclings with your right hand. I used the lower, better hold. The options for your left hand are all around the bolt and all are pretty bad. I suggest holding one for a moment so you can get a toehook with your left foot before clipping with your left hand. The fifth bolt is the crux, and I suggest a compression off two side pulls to a high foot, crossing your right hand to the 45 degree lip  on the left. Climbing is much easier from the final ledge to the anchor, so enjoy the victory lap.

Starts off fun and easy with interesting holes and huecos to use, gets more difficult midway through as the holds become smaller. The crux seems to be clipping the anchors at the little headwall at the top - started out easy,but many of the original holds I used when I did the first ascent have vanished. I named it as a memorial to my bro Mike who I lost this year, a hero to me.

Big holds, a good rest.  Past a big scoop over a bulge to a small mantle.

I was told that the first ascensionist wanted to rate this climb 5.11a. I am not sure if a final rating has been decided, but I consider it to be a mid-range 5.10. 

  There is a tricky sequence at the bottom of this route (smearing feet), followed by easier climbing. This second "crux" involves moving through some huge huecos near the top. If you proceed left through the huecos the climbing is easier, but more reachy; proceed to the right, and you have a few harder moves but they are very straight forward.

This is the lower level of the Black Corridor, separated from the upper level by a pile of boulders and an easy scramble.  

  These routes are on the right side, as viewed from the entrance to the corridor looking towards upper level.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Level - Right