Women in Cages starts with

thin crack & face moves that get you to the left leaning crack that runs through the center of the golden upper section. Ending with a dihedral

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False Pahrump

Padded Handcuffs

Pretty in Pink

Mr. Comforte

Pahrump

Fantastique!

Blue Velvet

Half and Half

The Chicken Ranch

Mustang Ranch

Muff Divers

Thin crack/face climbing on the lower half, gets you to the brown-ish crack through the beautiful golden rock on the upper half

This is the first short chimney, about 10' to the left of "Blue Velvet". The 1992 Vogel guide called it "Pahrump", which is another easy chimney farther to the right.

Pull jugs out of a scooped area, then  follow the chimney/trough to the top.

Variation: Pull the initial jugs, then climb the juggy face to the left to the top.  No pro.

This is the short, unprotected, vertical dike at the far right side of the north face of the south formation. It's a cool clean dike and more of a boulder problem than a route. Guide books give it a 5.9 rating, although I haven't checked Randy's latest guide. I thought it was more like 5.7. There is a chimney behind it, that can be used as a descent (easy Class 5).

This climb is at the far left of the east face of the West Rock. A dike and crack lead past a slight bulge and into the slot above. The bulge is the crux. Short, but fun. Descend back-side, 3rd class.

Stoppers, small cams to 3".

This climb is about 40' right of "The Chicken Ranch". It climbs a crack/corner, past a goldenbush, into a slot with chockstones at it's top. The rock is sound for the most part, but the climbing isn't that great. It's fun to solo, but I wouldn't waste my time breaking out gear for it.

Engaging climbing up a fantastic, well-protected face.

Great moves, great rock, cool climb

This is the right-leaning Thin crack/seam about 25' left of  "The Chicken Ranch". The start is a slightly overhanging, shallow, right-leaning corner, leading to the thin crack, where the angle lessens. Follow this to the top.

This climbs a left-leaning crack and slot  about 25'-30' right of  Mr. Comforte. Descend back-side, 3rd class.

This trough, with three converging cracks is near the center of the cliff. The two on the left go all the way to a notch on top. Climb using the two cracks on the left. There is a hole in the rock at the notch on top, that can be slung for an anchor.

The Chicken Ranch is a licensed brothel located in Pahrump, Nevada, about 60 miles west of Las Vegas.

This is a clean, vertical to overhanging dike that forms an outside corner.  It is strenuous but very short.

This climbs the face about 25-30 feet left of "Padded Handcuffs". It starts just left of a Chimney/wide crack. Steep easy climbing on decent rock leads to a short slab section and then to the top. This route is more fun than it looks. I found it to be an enjoyable, easy solo.

Pro 1/2" to 1.5".

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mustang Ranch