A steep start with the first crux around the second bolt, then eases up for awhile and finishes with a second crux near the top.  One of the best climbs on the cliff.  Trend left after the third(?) bolt.

Old Ironsides

Flexible Flakes

Flying Meat

Doctor Hook

One For Thomas

Raging Slob

Andromeda Sprain

Slow Children playing

Muffin Man

Starts with some dynamic moves on steep rock and climbs over a bulge.  I have never done the route, so the rating is an educated guess.  It might be 5.13-.

Follows several bolts past some flakes, which do flex, and finishes at a two bolt anchor.

Starting at the left side of the cave, head up and right to the first bolt and a flake.  Clip the bolt and head up the flake.  Continue to the anchors on edges and sometimes slopey pockets.

Climb the low angled choss to the first bolt.  Rest, and then fire up the steep face following large positive pockets.  Pull over the roof on the rail systems and clip the anchors.  Though short, this route is very fun and power packed. 

  Climbing past the anchor and three more bolts makes this a 5.12 outing.  It may or may not have anchors, though, because the ones that were there have been chopped.

This route is solid 5.8 but may seem super ran out and scary for an inexperienced leader. Slab up 15 feet to a flakey corner finally reaching the first bolt at about 25'. Dodge and weave your way to the anchors where you can either go straight up on the blank white face or follow easy, bad, loose rock in from the right.

Look for a long single chain hanging from the cliff.  The route goes past the chain to the top.

P1: Climb the crack angling up and right, ending at the point where the crack angles back left.  Set up a belay at this point.  Be careful lower on the pitch, due to somewhat tricky pro. 

  BETA ALERT: from the CAMM site - People, please protect the first crux moves well, because if you are going to fall this will be the place that it will occur. Put a Large hex or #13 stopper in to the left in the big downward flair. Do not put a cam in, it will walk up and out. Also up underneath the rib that sticks out right you can place a red #1 camalot or similiar cam underneath up in there. It would be a bad place to fall and rip gear. It is crucial that you have 2-3 pieces protecting this move as it would be a ground fall if all your gear ripped.

 P2: Continue in the crack system up and left to a right facing dihedral crack.  Some very fun moves take you to the top.

Start either low or high on a detached boulder and 5.6 your way up past a couple of bolts and casual hauling until you are met with a 5.6+ crux move below the anchors.

Lots of tall shade trees provide plenty of shade at all the route staging areas. Most routes follow lines that lead above the Missouri River tree line, so plan your climbs as the season and time of day best fits your comfort zone. Andromeda Sprain Crack is a trad classic marked by a very distinguishable, right-facing dihedral that angles up and to the right more than 95 feet.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Andromeda Buttress