The pitch on top of Cowboys Don't Cry. Lower angle with straightforward climbing.

Ride'm Cowgirl

Springboard

On Eagles' Wings

Clipped My Wings

Redemption

Undercover

Crack'n the Code

American Warrior

Zig Zag

Cat from Outer Space

Cowboys Don't Cry

A sustained route with a few tricky moves and lichens. Slopers, jugs and crimps. It is significantly more traversing than it appears in the guidebook. Lots of fun and a good alternative for busy days when Main Wall is covered in ropes.

This is a fun crack climb with an interesting start, good position, and exposure.  It is high on the main wall.  From the ledge at the top of Zig Zag, a tree extends horizontally off the ledge to the east.  This is the springboard.  Walk out the tree as far as possible to the point where it contacts a steep face.  A couple face climbing moves to the right off of the tree gain a good crack with a fixed pin.  The face climbing moves can be protected with a small nut.  Once in the crack, follow it all the way to the top with some interesting and balancy moves.  There is a bolted anchor at the top.

P1: From the top of Crackn the Code or Zigzag P1, climb directly into the corner and ascend a weakness slightly uphill from the Cat from Outer Space bolt line.  You'll know you're on it because there are no bolts on the slab to the roof.  The first bolt is pretty far left, so you might have to look for it.  Pull the roof and follow the bolts to the springboard tree. Finally, ascend a ramp up left with perhaps a larger cam placement to a two bolt anchor with no chains next to a tree. (5.9+)

P2: Follow the right-trending bolt line over a scarred face. (5.10a)

Grimy little short route. Not all that memorable but easy to tack on at the end of the day.

Route starts off with slightly overhanging smooth rock, this is the crux. Once you gain the 2nd bolt, follow the crack up and left for easier climbing. Top out at the chains for Springboard/On Eagles Wings.

Relatively easy climbing with good edges will take you to a mid-way anchor with mussy hooks on a ledge (5 bolts). From the anchor, head straight up (crux) following the bolt line until you reach a small madrone tree with a crack. Follow the crack until just before a small dead cedar tree. Step out on the face, clip the final bolt, and reach another set of chain anchors on a small ledge.

According to the guide book, this was originally a single pitch route. There are now anchors partway up so that the route can be divided into two pitches if desired. Additional bolts have been added since the guidebook was updated. Single rap will get you back to the top of the Snag Buttress.

There are 2 options to start this pitch:

1. (5.9) From the chains at the top of the first pitch on Zig Zag, climb the slab directly up past 2 bolts until underneath the overhang (these bolts are also shared with Cat from Outer Space which goes up the arete to the left).

2. (5.7) The overhang can also be reached by climbing discontinuous cracks and ramps on the slab which head up and right from the start.

Once at the overhang, climb rightward underneath it until rejoining the upper pitch of Zig Zag. Gear is available the whole way, and there are several fun moves. The route ends on the same ledge as Zig Zag, with a bolted anchor. Rope drag can be an issue on this pitch, bring along some extendable runners.

Slightly cleaner than LGK. Slabby finish is fun.

From Snag Buttress, at the tree to the right of the anchor, meander up the bolt-protected face or the broken crack system to a "cave", take the right side up and into a gully slab, reaching an anchor. Fun, varied movement.

Zig Zag is one of the area classics, and one of the longest climbs on Mt. Erie.  As described here, pitch 2 and 3 can easily be linked.  From the top of Zig Zag there are several options.  One can scramble gullies to the top of Mt. Erie, climb Springboard, or rappel the route.

Pitch 1

Climb the right facing corner onto a wide ledge at its top.  From this ledge, hand traverse up a flake, eventually mantling onto its top.  From here gain the slab and climb directly to the visible chains above.

Pitch 2

This pitch offers several options.  The original route heads up discontinuous cracks and ramps on the slab to the right, ending at a belay on top of the snag buttress.  Another option (better in my opinion) is to climb Undercover to the Springboard ledge on top of Zig Zag.

Pitch 3

Head directly up from the Snag Buttress to a ledge below a roof.  From this ledge, undercling and lieback around the right side of the roof.  The pitch tops out on another large ledge with a horizontal tree and a bolted anchor.

Route starts the same as Undercover.  Follow two bolts up a slab to a corner in the overhang.  The crux is the short vertical arete. Easy climbing leads to another short overhang. There is an anchor directly above after a couple more clips.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (a) Main Wall West