More good stuff just to the left (3m left and below) of Fret Arête. Again, like the other routes in this area, one wishes only that they would last a little longer. The stone is very good sculpted alpine granite.

Pitch #1: Climb up the thin layback crack to a shelf mantle and then move right to a two-bolt anchor. Rappel the short pitch.

Scream Seam

Twinkies Hatchet West

Magic Flakes

Fret Arête

Rusty Blade

Worry Wart

Unknown Bolted Slab

Fin Of Fear

Unknown

Mary's Mustache

The Wedge

Twinkie's Hatchet

Unknown route name and FA. If anyone knows, let me know.

Start out face climbing to gain a small tips crack. Use the crack and face holds to climb up to the splitter finger crack 2/3's from the top.

I'd put this route around 10d.  This is the best route at the cliff in my opinion.

Hard start to scramble to awkward hand crack.  Crux is at the top.

MF starts in a somewhat steep fingers to hands crack that takes tons of gear and reveals cool moves. Use the positive and solid flake at the top to pull the bulge. There are no chains at the top; set a natural anchor to lower or TR. You can breakdown the anchor and walk down a short gully back to the base.

Once you scramble to the base of the Frighton Wall, an obvious line appears that ascends a striking edge of beautiful alpine granite. Consider bringing mosquito repellant.

Pitch #1: Very technical initial moves climb the granite edge with unique footholds on the left and finger locks on the right. It steepens but nice overlaps allow a few dynamic moves to the two-bolt belay. 5.9+ or 10.a (?), 20m.

Crux is below roof.  Super fun.  Has it all.

Standing at the same belay spot as for Fret Arête, climb the short little thin crack with numerous knobs (warts) on the featured steep face to where the angle decreases and the crack continues to the shared two-bolt belay with Scream Seam.

Super Fun and a great place to hide from the heat for enough short climbs to keep your attention for an evening escape.

Three bolts up the compact granite to a two bolt chain anchor.  Great rock and fun edging, but short, of course.

A massive sharp tipped "fin" with a very broad base sits on a solid perch about 3/4 of the way up the line.

Pitch #1: Really fun lay backing or hand jams up a wide crack (plenty of smaller protection options on both sides) leads to the scary looking fin. It would not even budge for me...I can't really envision it leaving its perch, but it is still quite daunting and exciting to climb past it. You can completely avoid it by climbing thin fun moves to the right. A few more face moves up lichen splattered rock leads to a two-bolt belay. 5.8, 20m.

Rappel the route. Consider rappelling to the left of the Fin if you get the same concerns as we did? I know I will do this route again and again.

Mary's Mustache could have been a classic only if it were 30 feet taller. Regardless its still one of the best routes in the area with fun movement and good protection. Sling a horn, then climb a short fingertips crack that transitions into a perfect hand sized crack towards the top. Lots of options for building an anchor at the top of the hand crack. When ready to rap, climb up and right about 15 feet to bolts above the offwidth flake to the right.

Crux is the final move.  Good moves.  Needs cleaned more.

Climb the black chimney with the old piton, mantle out onto the first ledge, climb over the grass in the flake straight above, then climb the 10 foot splitter hand crack to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Brighton's Frighton Wall