This blank looking route climbs the black face on the left side of the main wall. The climbing begins with a powerful section up the pocketed wall leading to a big sidepull/ledge. From here, the holds get very small and far apart resulting in great vertical climbing between widely spaced bolts (by canyon standards).    One of my best route names, if I do say so myself...

Black Slabbath

Baby Hands Might Hurt

The Beast

All Strung Out on Crack

Piggy

Wild Boar

Fire

The Conch

Thumbelina

Crack in dihedral, small slight steepnees 2/3 up   a good foot warm up, but maybe dirty due to occasional runoff. 

  a true crack,  

Farthest right sport route on the wall (July '12). Technical face climbing on edges down low and pockets through the top. Watch for wasp nests in the pockets!

This route starts on the Conch, rather then moving left on the Conch go straight on line of bolts.  Great climbing with a mind bender crux towards the top.

This route climbs up the very obvious dihedral in the center of the wall. The beginning crux is awesome sidepull slapping and heelhooking, leading to a wild move to a big edge. The route eases up in the dihedral but exiting out left near the top of the dihedral is a bit dicey.

Wild Boar climbs out the big roofs to the right of Piggy. Stick-clip the first 2 bolts.   Start a bit to the right of the bolt line and climb crimps up to a v-shaped undercling in the 1st roof. Match on the undercling (or you can cross through) and head straight left to get established by the 2nd bolt under the 2nd big roof. Big, punchy moves get you out the roofs onto the headwall where the climbing remains challenging.   The route is 3 stars when it's in its "clean" state. The holds under the roof have the tendency to get dirty. The direct start has yet to be done....

This great, crimpy route climbs the black face to the right of Black Slabbath.   Start slightly left of the bolt line and climb jugs up and right to the big edge. From here, it's sequential crimping to the top. The first crux sequence off of the big edge is very hard to read because the crimpers are kind of hidden. Very balancey near the end. Great climb.

The Conch climbs up the pocketed right side of the Lord of the Flies wall. Great warm-up for the harder routes on this wall.    Begin by pulling the small roof right off the ground and then follow big, widely spaced pockets up and left. The crux at mid-height is tricky (think undercling), and the top has claimed more than a few pumped climbers. Enjoy!

If you're at the point in your early climbing career where routes like Preparation H and Strung Out On Crack are becoming cakewalks, its time to get your butt whipped by Tinkerbell's naughty kid sister. If you've never had your cherry popped at the 5.9 level, I would highly recommend stick clipping the first two bolts, because Thumbelina likes it rough, and has kicked off her fair share of 5.10 climbers. Trust me, decking out in this area is no trip to the magic kingdom. After a steep start with shallow pockets, the adventure gets pretty exciting with good movement up a sexy arete. Thumbelina is sure to please and satisfy those looking for a longer climb with a fair amount of challenge to it.

This is the first wall you come across at Blue Sky. It has several warm-ups and four 5.12s. It has a decent hang to chill and eat lunch in between burns. The routes generally have big holds on the right side of the wall and small holds on the left. All are fun.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lord Of The Flies Wall