From the two bolt anchor on the first pitch of somalian pirate climb up and left aiming for a lone bolt in the improbable looking face. Hoist yoursailf on the ledge and prepare to walk the plank to the anchor above.

Walk the Plank

Red Lantern

Nightmare on Labor day

Where the Sun Don't Shine

Somalian Pirate

Drooling Badger

unknown 1

Ptygmatic

unknown 3

Original Route

Beasly's Route

Climb and Punishment

Chinquapin

unknown 2

Rhime of the Ancient Mariner

Sunken Treasure

The first known route done at this wall ~ mid 80's.

Climb the cool pocketed wall past maybe 5 bolts to a shared anchor up on the ledge at ~ 65'.

A cool climb that is somewhat an anomaly for Linville as it climbs a crack feature for its entire length.  Climb the corner feature that arches left. Although the corner looks wide there are many places that accept finger to hand size pieces. Once the crack arches to left you will come to an obvious belay stance. From here the crack turns vertical again, follow this to the trees.

I'm not sure who may have tried to climb this before me, there was some pink and green webbing found about 20 feet up the initial corner.

The route was named after an old red kerosene lantern that was found rusted at the bottom. It was left at the base for posterity.

Maybe the best route on the wall. This classic was established Labor Day weekend 2009. From the two bolt anchor on Somalian Pirate climb straight up off the belay. Bust out the overhanging face and enjoy the ride to another two bolt anchor.

Climb up and right into the steep and somewhat strenuous corner with bolts. 4 bolts protect cryptic moves on bullet stone to a low angle top out at a tree (shared with the left line).

As you walk the bottom of the wall you will see two gullies. this is the right hand one and climbs to a 2 bolt anchor. Second pitch follows dihedral/corner under the large roof to the right and ends at the anchor for unknown 3.

Overall a fun and funky route with unique rock, some tricky pro (cams), pumpy climbing, and a wild little overhang pull on P2. Unfortunately this line can be wet in all but the driest conditions.

P1 Up face and blunt arete left of original route. Funky cams in pockets and pods ~ 5.10. Mantel under big overhang then climb up and right to shared anchor.

P2 Up short face to left facing overhang/corner. Clip bolt then pull over overhang via a tough little heel hook move. Perhaps 5.11-. Gain stance on face then climb straight up a ways, finding funky cams here and there. Finish to ledge and anchor of other route to the right. Rap or finish P3 by joining other route.

the first route on the wall as you walk in.

Named after the impressive geological folds located under the large roof at the anchor. This route climbs the vertical funky face just right of the long dirty major crack system ("Red Lantern"?).

Climb underclings and sidepulls past 3 bolts to an anchor under the big roof. A cryptic and bouldery route that is fun once you figure out the sequences.

Could probably be climbed in the rain due to the large roof.

I haven't personally done this route yet but wanted to include it here for the sake of clarity. It does look like a worthwhile climb.

This is the left line of two bolted routes uphill from the main area. It climbs a steep arete and face past bolts to an anchor.

Climb the obvious thin crack/corner to a face protected with bolts. Rap from tree on ledge at ~ 55'

Named for the tree that lives nearby and scatters its spiky fruit around the base. Climb up some ledges to gain a bolt below a steep roofy wall. Crank the steeps past bolts, diagonaling rightward then up to the anchor.

No albatross was injured during the making of this line. But, perhaps a certain badger was not so lucky... One of the better routes at the wall. Cool face climbing low and a steep headwall up high make this one a lot of fun.

Climb the cryptic edge and pocket filled face just right of a water streak past 4 bolts up to a ledge. From here move up easy ground, perhaps plugging a piece or two (sling long), and pull the overhanging finish past 3 more bolts to an anchor. Stay low at the first bolt above ledge to avoid pulling on the hollow flake and to gain better hold out left.

Climb the face past a low bolt to a rail on the left. Move up to a hand size cam (above the bolt) and then wander up the cool face past 3 more bolts and perhaps a piece or two of gear. Several crux moves and good rock make this a fun route.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Flackamite/Pirate wall