This gem is now hidden behind foliage but it once was a sought after test piece. It climbs the leaning dihedral on the right side of the Dihedral Wall.  With the advent of placing protection became far less strenuous than on the FA. If this was at the Smoke Bluffs there would be a lineup every weekend. The route's name is derived from the FA team initials.

The route has the feeling of being simultaneously low angle and overhanging at the same time!

At the top of the corner there should be a ledge with an anchor.

Gogum

The Defoliator/Instigator

Cup and Saucer

Julies Roof

The Terminator

Climb up a short steep section past a bolt (1/4”?) and then pull into the wide dihedral. There should be good protection for this move. Start stemming up the corner. (5.11)  The crack occasional widens out locally as you ascend but mostly it’s too small for fingers until you’re past the halfway mark. Originally protected with several pins that were removed at some point. Modern gear should make the route protect-able without them but that’s just a guess. The stemming is sustained but the corner is short and the route joins Julie’s Roof at the top of the corner.  At one point this was a classic Index stemming problem.

Easy climbing leads to a corner. Climb the corner (5.7) to the Terminator anchor. The Instigator variation (5.8) starts just to right.

Climb the crack just left of Gogum up to a roof. (5.11-)  At the roof it is possible to continue up - at least on TR I can't remember if its been done from the ground up.  In any event it will be dirty.  Julie's Roof proper traverses left under the roof and climbs an easier crack to a ledge.

The original Dihedral Wall routes faced south and when first climbed were very visible from the parking lot. Doug and Jeff discovered that just around the corner facing west was a short featured wall. This route climbs past two bolts through a knobby section of rock. The crux is short lived and a bit reachy. Easier climbing leads to an anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (Ca) Dihedral Wall