Directions to the route may be found under the 'Rock' description of Picture Window.  You'll know you're there when you see folks waiting for the route. 

  Seriously, it took until my 6th visit to Rushmore before I caught this route with no one on it.  A cool rock graced with an incredible route.  Very popular and deservedly so. 

  Gossamer climbs the right side of the fin / arete up to, beside, and over the hole (picture window) in the rock.  The start is a bit of an awkward (yet easy) move up to a block and the start of the fin.  As the ground drops off beneath the climb, it is wise to protect the first moves with a stopper (#10 BD?) or cam. 

  Once on the block, layback the fin, and start moving up clipping the bolts.  With each move, the angle of the fin lessens and makes things just a bit easier.  Once at the apex of the rock, you'll find 2 'quick clip' type anchors - slip the rope in & get lowered to the ground.  Because of the nature of the route, it needs to be seconded to be cleaned, and rigging a TR wouldn't really work. 

  The climb is rated 5.7 and the moves are 5.7, but has a certain intimidation factor.  A fall for the leader OR second could get a bit messy.  As with so many climbs in the Black Hills, this isn't sport climbing - it is bolt protected climbing.

Gossamer

Broken Window

Conn Route on Picture Window

Broken Window climbs the left side of the formation's highest face well left of the Gossamer arete and the window. 

  A steep weird unprotected start leads to a 4th class rampy section.  The first bolt is above this ramp.  The business is the last 40 feet, which is thin 5.11 crystal climbing.  The climbing isn't bad, but there are better routes of the same grade at South Seas and the Chopping Block - do this if you've done every other 11 at Rushmore.

The crux is stepping up onto Picture Window.  Last time I was on it there was quite a bit of Lichen, which made it even more exciting. 

A smaller rock with a couple routes on it, but for all practical purposes this is the home of Gossamer, a stellar 5.7 with awesome moves and position.

Description

Protection

Routes in Picture Window