Feels more like Font than Sandias. A very tricky powerful sloper gem. See video "505" at myuctv.com

Tommy Guns

Bat Dance

Little Drummer Boy

Peener

Foam Assisy

I think this is the best line in the Sandias for the grade. A tall beautiful arete on great holds.  See route description on topo.

Great warm up for Foam Assisy. Nice sloper climbing and mantle onto the slab. 

  Start in the "cave" formed by the twin boulders on a chest high two handed sloping edge. Move left out of the cave onto some slopers at the lip, then up and mantle onto the slab.

Really fun and kind of unique to the foothills. 

  From a stand start grab the seam formed by a split dike that trends up and left to the top of the boulder. Follow the seam and bad or slightly crumbly feet to the top.

Start on some good holds at head height and work up mostly right facing holds to a slabby and rounded top out.  

  Fun laybacking on a blunt arete.

Name comes from the fact that you need to stack pads to reach the starting holds. 

  Grab a sharp but big left crimp and a sloper on the arete. Make compression moves up and over the blunt prow. A jug awaits at the top. 

  This thing would be even better if one could start it down and right on the Tommy Guns starting hold. This will be quite difficult and temperature dependent.

Small concentration of Great problems. North facing so it can get kinda cold up here.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Simms