Follow the nice smooth (and surprisingly positive) slopers on the right arete to the top. There is also a sharper vertical dihedral/crack in the middle of the face that can be used. Rating is probably dependent on which holds are used (plus side, variations possible! Arete only, dihedral only, compress between both. One big dyno?)

The Firefly

Dog Log

Crimpsqueak

Pimpsqueak

Bed of Roses

Not many moves but fun. Start matched on the only obvious (thin) hold in the middle of the face. Pull on to the face, then go for the two much more comfy jugs directly above; continue up past them to top out.

Start in the big hueco in the back of the Pimpsqueak cave, and work your way out left through some big and some odd features. Hyper-technical, tensiony climbing.

One of my favorite problems in Mad Meadows. It's funky, strange, and beautiful. Beware that the grade is constituted by how difficult it is to avoid dabbing on the big rock beneath the other boulder.

This is, in my opinion, the finest boulder problem in Leavenworth.  Lines don't get any more pure or aesthetic than this, and the movement ranges from technical, to gymnastic, to purely powerful as you progress from start to finish.

Start by climbing the arete on good holds to the flat edge at the beginning of the roof.  Set your feet and fire your right hand out behind you to a good sloper on the arete.  From here, a mix of squeezing, heel-hooking, and scumming will bring you to the crux throws at the end.  Toss for the finishing jug then make a couple more delicate moves to top out.

Sit start in the Hueco beneath the roof, move up and right on huecos and then make a big move to gain the large flat hold on Pimpsqueak. Finish as for Pimpsqueak.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pimpsqueak Boulder