Approach this route by walking along the top of the dam and then scrambling over boulders to reach a rocky spot just right of Mirage (5.10b) and below the start of False Rat Ledge (5.8). The route parallels that of False Rat Ledge and is easily identified by it's start in an obvious dark-stained flake system.

Climb the flake (pro to 2") and then wander upward on somewhat vague friction past four bolts, cutting right after the last bolt to finish with the last moves of False Rat Ledge. Gear to 3.5" for the anchor in a crack about 20' back from the edge, which can make it difficult to hear your partner if you don't extend yourself out to the edge. Descend to the climber's left down slabs and blocks.

Although the climb feels a tad contrived at times it does provide some enjoyable friction moves in a nice setting, high above the water and thronging tourists. One star out of five.

The Arraignment

Rat Ledge

Bad Lizards

Jarheads and City Slickers

Graduate and Don't Look Back

Mirage

False Rat Ledge

Best approached by walking across the top of the dam. Start left of

The Arraignment

(5.10a) and climb a right-facing corner (5.7) to a ledge with a bolt anchor. The 2nd pitch traverses diagonally left and up slabby face; 8 bolts to a gear belay (shared with Bad Lizards and The Arraignment). Descent is a scramble off to the east.

Cross Barker Dam; drop off the left (west) side and proceed for about a hundred feet around the formation and up a slab to an upward and left sweeping crack system just to the right of "Bad Lizards". Climb the crack to a horizontal ledge. Traverse left and surmount it. Continue up a crack on your left to the top. No rap anchors. Go left (north) to downclimb.

Cross Barker Dam to Rat Rock; drop off the left side (west)and walk around the formation for about a hundred feet and up a slab. Look for bolts following a vertical, unobtrusive dike to the left of a upward, left sweeping crack system (Rat Ledge). Climb the dike to an overhang with a bolt. Surmount the overhang and proceed up and right by three more bolts to the top. No rap bolts. Downclimb to your left (north).

Best avoided if possible.  Climb some loose cracks in a gully then move left face climbing past two bolts.  The crux is between the bolts and you may hit a ledge if you fall in the short distance between them. Better than working...

A grainy hands to fingers crack with the crux at the end.  Expect to want to do some gardening at the crux because it fills up with debris from the small basin above the route.

If you like attention from tourist, this climb puts you in the spotlight being just across the Barker Dam from the popular nature trail.  No particular move on this route might be remembered, however, the position by the water and the length and moderate difficulty of it all makes it a must do.  The second half of the route could be considered difficult to protect for some so this may not be appropriate for the fledgling trad leader.

Description

Protection

Routes in Rat Rock