Start via the summer east face route for 2+ pitches. when at the end of the ramp(tree belay?) continue straight up until hit the steep rock barrier of the summer route but now traverse left(30ft?) limited pro but not to difficult on good snice/ice into a corner then straight up to a belay under the crux pitch. climb the crux pitch straight up via 5.8ishA0 rock(M5?) to the obvious tree to belay at the end of the pitch. The last pitch is up and slightly right via steep snow with small trees for pro. descend via south face

East Face Variation

Northeast Slabs

This route is best explained in Select Climbs in the Cascades Vol II, by Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield. The route is also mentioned in Becky Cascades Guide Vol 2.

Ascend the obvious slab on the NE side of the mountain.  The second pitch can be difficult to protect with screws or pickets and trip reports refer to long run outs on thin ice and balancy mixed slab climbing.  Get on to the North Ridge.  From here, many lines are probably possible with varying difficulty.  The dry rock Notch has an exposed low 5th class/M3 pitch over the east face, another easier way up further west probably exists.  After the notch, it is relatively easy to make the summit.  The descent route is the standard rappel down the South Face of the Tooth.

The original grading was WI3 low 5th 50 to 70 degree ice (1st pitch variation).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Winter-Spring (ice, snow, mixed)