The crown jewel of this crag and a true test of endurance on some of NH's most unique granite. Stick clip the first bolt then do a tricky boulder problem to gain the second. Follow positive holds trying to conserve energy up to a distinctive bulge at bolt seven, utilize a key undercling chip to clip, then crimp your way to a glorious granite hueco. Shake out before dispatching the redpoint crux of fighting the pump through a few thin moves to a thank god jug and a nice ledge at the chains.

Punk Hippie

Dr. Pill

Hippie Pill

Screwjack Arete

Start as for Punk Hippie but rather than pulling the bulge into the second half of that route clip the sixth bolt with an alpine draw unclip the fifth bolt and traverse hard left under the roof to join the upper half of Dr. Pill. This combines the low boulder problem of PH with the heartbreaker crux of Dr. P making for a linkup that comes highly recommended! A great way to climb the stellar upper half of Dr. Pill even if the bottom is seeping.

Stick clip the first bolt then climb balancy face up to a thuggish traverse left into a massive side pull over a small roof. The gap between bolts three and four looks intimidating however by the time your feet are past the last bolt your on some seriously killer holds. Milk a good rest then pull up on jugs clipping a bolt before firing off the amazing final third of the route on pockets and pinches to a tenuous red point crux. This route unfortunately suffers from seepage around the first two bolts, requiring long periods of dry weather to fully air out, however it is well worth doing and is often climbable even when damp. (Hopefully with a little love as the bottom cleans up more this will become less of a problem)

Step off a block then climb past four bolts on distinctive holds trending right to reach a striking roof crack. Shake out plug some gear then pull into the steep rapidly thinning splitter being sure to get in a good piece before it disappears. Try not to get lured falsely left by deceiving holds before pulling over the crux second roof using a critical hold around the corner, finish by delicately climbing past two more bolts to the chains. Enjoy the view its a good one. The closer to the arete proper you stay the easier this route feels.

The Gonzo Gully is a hidden crag tucked into a slot just up and left of where the ice climb Ace of Spades forms. Although not especially large this crag is home to a small selection of amazing climbs on steep extremely unique pocketed granite unlike anything else in Northern NH. The gully itself is small and can be prone to loose rock due to water runoff in the spring so use caution especially in early season when hiking above others. However there is a great ledge just outside of the gully proper that can comfortably handle a few  people making this area far more pleasant for small groups than you might expect. The top of this cliff is also one of the few places you can fully see Cannon cliff, Profile lake and Echo lake from the same stance making it a must visit in the fall.

 ***This is a new crag thus lurks the occasional friable hold and a bit of grit compared to Rumney***

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gonzo Wall