Climb tan colored rock right of

Avant Yvonne (aka Read my Flips)

aiming for an obvious short section of curving crack. Once past the crack a bolt protects the crux moves as you work your way left to the shared anchors for

Avant Yvonne

.

Avanti

Read My Lips

Quick Fix

Avant Yvonne (aka Read my Flips)

Avant Cave

Avant Chain

Smashing Pumpkins

Chain Gang

Don't Touch Jessica's Crack

Avant Savant

Shaking Hands with the Unemployed

Jessica's Crack

Jane's Addiction

A bouldery move down low leads to interesting movement up the dimpled face right of

Avant Cave

to a large fin near the top which is mantled before reaching the anchors.

Located 40 feet right of Avanti.

Climb a steep bulge past 3 horizontals to a slab with 2 bolts. The crux is the start.

This is the short face just left of Smashing Pumpkins. Climb a short face (5.9, unprotected) up to a horizontal, then climb over a bulge with pro in a seam to a crux face move (5.10d) near the top.

Starting from a large hueco climb the nice patina face up and left past some cryptic moves to finish with a section of grainy friction where the rock changes color. Belay atop

Jesssica's Crack

for best results.

This route, like Avant Chain, used to sport chain link hangers, which fortunately are long gone now.

Starting from ground level, unlike the rest of the routes on this wall, power up steep patina down low to a tricky move up high where the rock changes color and texture.

The name comes from the FA when the low-on-funds but enterprising individuals decided to use two links of chain for a bolt hanger instead of a commercial hanger; the route now sports real hangers.

This is the overhanging 3 bolt face just left of Jane's Addiction. Stick clip the first bolt. The crux is from the ground to the hueco. The top section is 5.11-.

This is a toprope variation to Avant Chain.

Begin from the big ledge at the base of Shaking Hands With The Unemployed. From the far left end of the ledge, climb the face (5.11b) up and left to meet Avant Chain at it's 3rd bolt. The moves up and left from the 4th bolt are the crux (5.11d).

Start about 5' left of

Jessica's Crack

and climb a nice vertical patina face to about the halfway point where the angle relents, the patina disappears and grainy friction leads to the top.

Climb jugs and edges past disjointed cracks in the patina face, then moves slightly right to a stance atop the last bit of patina before clipping the last bolt on the neighboring route (Avant Cave) and finishing as per that route.

It's probably best to bring some larger gear and belay atop

Jessica's Crack

as the rap bolts for this face are a bit to the right and would leave the second with a undesirable swing.

Power up a thin crack in the dark patina face and clip a bolt at the end of the crack, make some thin cruxy moves to reach another bolt and then run it to the top on grainy tan-colored rock to the top. Decent climbing on this but the poorly protected moves up high coupled with the old bolts make this route especially spine-tingling.

Perhaps it's best to toprope this route until the bolts get replaced.

Park at the Hall of Horrors pullout, in front of North Horror Rock.  Follow the marked trail around to the left, at which point the East Face of the East Wall of the Hall of Horrors will come into view.  Keep walking around this rock on the left, then right into the Hall of Horrors proper.  The East Face of the West Wall will be on your left.

In the middle of this face is an obvious, short, wide crack.  Approach by walking past, then back left to the base of the crack on top of a ledge.

Vertical, reasonable protected, very short.

Descend from chains atop the face to the right.  One 50m rope will get you all the way past the base of the climb and back to the ground.

A semi-classic Josh sport climb that is well worth doing if in the area.

The start may be a little reachy for shorter climbers, but persevere and enjoy the addicting crimps on the upper section of featured face.

The anchors are on the top a few feet back so you'll need to walk off this climb (to the climber's left) and perhaps extend the anchor if top-roping.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in West Wall Inner (Jane's Addiction Area)