Difficult moves right off the ledge lead to easier climbing after the 4th bolt. Generally trend left of the bolt line and follow a right angling seam with underclings and sidepulls up to a small ledge, "The Room", below the overhanging prow. Rest here as long as you please then do some awesome moves up the prow for several bolts. Mantel over the lip and keep it together with one more slab move before topping the cliff out. Classic for its position but has some crumbly rock down low. Will clean up with more traffic. The room is the room and I encourage everyone to climb the room.

The Room

Big Brain

Infinite Fun Space

Slick Fifty

Soft Option

CG Face

Feel The Bern

Kid Gloves

The Fun House

Ziggurat

Moon Over Dog Street

Dunce Dance Revolution

October Sky

Full Tilt

Get Wacky

Obscured by Clowns

Bad Brain

Razoreater

Twelfth Labor

The Rift

Broken Heroes

Kilodeer

Bluebeard

Mr. Big Shot

Infinite Crystal Space

1000 Churches

Ambro-agie

TS Arete

Stone Pulse

Big Smoke

Scramble up to a high first bolt. Follow the layback crack up to the chains at the base of the second tier. Has some tricky moves.

You can use this as an approach to the TS arete, or head up the gully to the right of this route.

Link up. Climb the boulder problem at the beginning of Bad Brain to a doubled crimp. Then clip the lone bolt out left instead of the 2nd bolt on Bad Brain and traverse a rail left to join Full Tilt. Climb the technical and sustained exit crux to Full Tilt, adding some difficulty. Something like V9 to .12- to V6

Climb the steep right arete with good holds.

Read Iain Banks books, theyre way better than this route.

Vert face climbing with ledge halfway. The first half of climb goes at mid 5.12 involving sustained, thoughtful movement up sidepulls, crimps and underclings. you can end here by clipping the chains halfway up the TS Arete. From here to the top follow angling jug features to a difficult crux at the top. Worth doing the full line. The climbing directly above the ledge is well protected and easy. Top the cliff out!

Cool overhanging arete climb on great rock.  Fun moves on mostly big holds.

Start straight up on tricky crimps and underclings to a big move gaining the horizontal edge. Mantle up and over to a no hands rest. Climb a few nice crimps to the mini roof to clip the 3rd bolt.

Surmount the roof (crux) by a few big pulls and a tiny hold. The final bolt is a little tricky to clip, but then it is easy to the chains.

Center of the upper tier. Start ontop of Lower Tier or access with a 4th class left step from gulley. Crank up streaked wall with a 5.11- crux at bolt 3 and another slightly harder crux at the last bolt. Spectacular ambiance at the anchor. (Unfinished project just to the right)

Start in a dihedral. Find the beta and get to the seam near the 2nd bolt. After that it's cruiser to the chains. Watch out for loose and dirty rock up top.

Stem in from the corner and climb a face, clipping some bolts. Then climb a couple of bodylengths of hand crack. Bring one cam.

Listen this corner is cool.  Wild times.  A little this, a little that.  You can either go up the thin corner and flop out on the ledge (10a), or turn that dance into a revolution and continue up on jugs to a small corner top out (10b).  For now, BYOanchor with small gear / nuts. Top rope with some extension.

Begin with Kilodeer (.10a) and then move left to climb an overhanging crack leading to the vertiginous arete. Lots of 5.11 climbing to begin with zigzagging crack climbing, hand jams, fist jams, and some strange arete trickery culminating with one compression move and a good rest. Above there's a crux boulder problem in the angular roof system. steep, blocky, inobvious, and requires some body tension. closely bolted. kneebar oppurtunities.

Despite being tall it's not very sustained.

Follow a seam on the left side of the Joint wall.  Goes up a black streak.  Good movement and pumpier than you would think.  Expect positive crimps up to the last bolt.  The crux is the last few moves to the anchor involving a crappy finger lock in a flare and a long move to the clipping hold.

Good climb following a right trending seam/crack. Start by climbing up to the first bolt then making a long reach into the seam. Engaging compression climbing leads to the third bolt. Easier climbing using the crack takes you to the top.

First 2 bolts on slab lead to a vertical wall with fun moves on positive crimps. The crux comes in the middle of the climb, between bolts 2 and 4, after which the edges get bigger.

Middle of the left wall at the Joint.  Really small holds and hard movement.

Follows the seam straight up. Make Rifle-y moves up the overhanging groove closest to the bolt line. Crux to get into the jagged overlaps with body english trickery, much kneework, and interesting grips that consistently face the wrong way. The middle section with gratuitous jugs on blade shaped flakes gives way to a pumpy mix of positive jams, locks, and slopers on a slight overhang.

Stick clip the 2nd bolt, stand in a protected spot and belay to the right. Shattered rock provides some cool holds but even after tons of cleaning, take care.

Would be better if more sustained.

Really great corner climbing utilizing finger locks and side pulls up to a shelf out left. Clip the final bolt and make a few crimp moves to the anchor. The top is unfortunately pretty dirty and could use a good brushing.

Would get more stars if the top didn't collect dirt from run off.

The Rift is located right of the large chasm at the Joint Wall.  It ascends a red corner.  The difficulties are right at the start with tricky feet and side pulls for the hands.  Getting to the second bolt is the crux.  After this you climb up the dihedral to a small overhang with maybe a 5.11 move to surmount it.  The last moves to the anchor feel a bit run out but are not hard.

Stick clip the first bolt, do an interesting move to get off the ground and into a stance with jugs. Leave the stance and climb through high quality red pegmatite on a slight overhang. Enter a technical boulder problem with tiny directional crimps. Expect to crimp some 2-finger crystals.  That said, the crux is probably the footwork: flexibility goes a long way. The movement is static and intricate: I did 13 hand moves in 20 feet. This gives way to nice positive crimping and a deceptively pumpy finish. Really cool crux and pretty rock. A possible detractor would be the sharpness of a couple of holds.

Stem the corner on the left side of the Joint.

The second pitch climbs to the top at 5.11. bring small cams and nuts.

Start under a roof. Make two interesting clips, then power through the crux on crimps and an odd fingerlock. From here stay on good holds and you'll cruise to the top.

Be aware of loose rock up top. Pulled off many (10+) death size rocks and a large loose boulder awaits to claim its victim.

Left side of its area. Follow good holds up to strange angles with a tricky crack finish.

Climb the left of the two aretes. Easier balancy climbing leads to a bouldery bit at the last bolt, small crimps on the left, subtle foorwork and some power.

Like Rimfire's idiot cousin.

Climb tricky seams, jams, and liebacks. harder than it looks.

An interesting arete with multiple cruxes. some balance and some fingertip power required.

This is a proud arete on the right side of the Joint. Going to the top of the wall, it passes several ledges. Despite having the nature of a multi-pitch bouldering circuit, the rock and movement are mega quality.

Bolted by Todd Skinner, this was his final contribution to Lander. BJ Tilden did the FFA in 2013, and on the same day Jonathan Siegrist climbed the 2nd ascent.

Pitch 1, 30 ft:

climb "Soft Option", the 5.9 corner passing a few bolts. Or scramble up onto the first tier ledge from the right side. Get established on a square pedestal with a two bolt anchor below the smooth, black arete.

Pitch 2, .12c, 40 ft:

Vertical balance climbing on nice black rock up a rounded arête. gets harder after the second bolt. Work both sides of the arête and do some crystal cranking. Has many tricky moves and is worthwhile in its own right.

Pitch 3, .13c, 55 feet:

From the final ledge, steeper moves on strange blocky slopers leads to the perfect section of laser cut, aesthetic arête, with it's best quality being it's near complete lack of holds. A few degrees overhanging on the left, and vertical on the right. Bouldery compression with huge spans, micro footholds, alternately technical, balancy, and powerful. Climbs as a V8 boulder through the inobvious entry moves and the hard transition to the blankest part of the arete. A decisive move to a flat jug rail is followed by a good rest and an exposed 5.12 outro to the very top of the square-cut wall.

This one follows a seam up and gently left on a really clean granite face. It starts with a shallow corner and moves up on good edges and thoughtful slab climbing.

Great route!

Climb a left facing corner in a black streak with jams and angular slopers. As the crack dissapears do an iron cross type exit to the right. Shares finish holds with Broken Heroes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Joint