The sustained, tenuous friction climbing on this one will leave your noggin tired, if nothing else.  The rock is superb, and the crux is well-protected.  I put the R rating for the runout up top, where the rock quality is a bit poorer and the protection scarce, but the climbing is easier, maybe 5.9 or so. 

  Hard friction takes you straight off the ground to the first bolt, which you'll pass diagonalling right to the sloping horizontal ramp. Clip the next bolt, traverse right to the end of the ramp, and figure out how to use the few holds you have to make it straight up to a stance at the third bolt, just up and left. From there you can traverse left to the right leaning flake system which offers a bit of protection. 

  Continue up and left, pretty far above the last piece of pro you have...once you've mantled onto the more secure ground of the left facing flake, you can scamper up to an alcove where you can set up a belay with a bolt and two horns.

Condescender

Fleabitten (Mid-Climb Variation)

Snooky

Slip o' Fools

The Wag

Falling Aspirations

Condescending  (Mid-Climb Variation)

Lima Bean

Stretched On Your Grave

Weissners Butress

Consolation Prize

Cirrus

Lakeview

The Indented Slab (a "Mid-Cliff" Slab)

Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation)

unknown

Weissners Dike

Blockade Direct ?

Odyssey of an Artichoke

Micron

A fun route right up the slabs under the "Old Man". [Re' photo - there is also an excellent photo, at a slightly different angle, of the route posted to the Lakeview route. ]

 Pitch 1: 5.7 Climb up and right of the big Detached rocks traversing right to a left facing corner. Tricky, slippery moves up the corner with good pro. Head up and right in to an alcove of broken rock with a single bolt. Belay.

 Pitch 2: 5.8 make a long step right and walk on small ledges continuing in that direction until you have to make a long move right in to the amazing crack that you cant see till you are in it. Climb this crack (wide fingers to perfect hands) until you hit fist size then head up and left on slab to broken corner. Step down and left to a small ledge with 2 bolt anchor. This is right above the alcove belay.

 Pitch 3: 5.8 Move left and climb easy "stairs" with no pro to the overlap (pin). Pull over this and climb crumbly slab through broken overlap, move slightly right to a pin at a cruxy overlap. Make a tricky (reachy) move and gain the anchors (2 bolts). [2020NOTE-see several COMMENTs about pin and belay bolt(s) on this pitch, R Hall NH Admin.] 

 Pitch 4: 5.5 Climb crumbly mossy rock (not as bad as it sounds) past a pin and move left through the overlaps and up to a 2 bolt anchor.

 Pitch 5: 5.7 Climb the slab above by moving up and right then back left and finishing up a finger crack. then pick your way through the broken stuff above to a belay down and left of where the Old Man once was.

 basically this is where it meets up with Lake view. The Last two pitches that are shared by many routes are some of the best i've done on the cliff. A pretty face with amazing cracks followed by a pretty corner that goes just left of the Old Man.

From the top of the first pitch of Weissners Dike climb slab (.9) with very small gear up to a belay to the right of the Old Mans Dog.  From there, drop down and aid (C-1) out the obvious crack that diagonals out the roof (would like to see this go free).  At the end of the crack climb very enjoyable flakes and edges up to a fixed belay on top of the Dog (.7).

This route climbs the left arching overlap 150' right of Wiessner's Dike. Start on a ledge 15' up shared by Consolation Prize and Odyssey Of An Artichoke.

 P.1 Climb 30' of the Consolation Prize ramp then up a 4-6" crack and left to a belay ledge (2 bolts). 60' 5.7 

  P.2 Lay-back up the Odyssey corner and undercling left following the arch. Down climb 10' on grassy holds and belay on small ledges. 100' 5.8 

  P.3 Follow a line of ramps and ledges up left to a belay at the large spike shared with Falling Aspirations. Move left to join Wiessner's Dike. 150' 5.5

I'm not sure if this has been hit by rockfall. it was very popular for a while, nice climbing at a moderate grade. I took a 70 footer at Albany Slabs on the morning of this f/a

P1 5.7+ 120 scramble up stacked blocks to the face below the Dog. Climb the face (pins) using thin cracks and exiting right onto the dike near the first belay (bolts) 

  P2 5.7 120 move left up the dike pulling onto a slab with a lone bolt (the hanger sticks out about 3/4 in) friction past the bolt moving left to a crack leading to an easy corner that eats nuts. Belay from a bolt anchor on top of the dogs head

Not sure exactly how far north of Wiessner's Dike to start, but 100ft give or take 20ft is probably ok. Look for a slab in newly exposed rock right at the ground capped by some overlaps maybe 40ft up. You want to ascend the slab and traverse to the left below the overlaps and exit around a corner onto a slab. You should see a bolt on an obvious ramp leading left. After the bolt it's another 40 ft to the belay in some flakes (bolts).  

  The second pitch climbs up and left of the belay through a series of flake systems to a slab move(5.8). Head left a bit more to an obvious line(some munge)then straight up for 40 ft or so, and then back right to what remains of the original belay ledge(2 bolts).  

  The third pitch is unchanged, except the corner immediately after the    slab crux (9-) sustained some damage. This pitch ends at a nice ledge which allows you to traverse left into Wiessner's.   P-4 and P-5 go straight up towards Weisner's corner,  grassy belay for P-4, hanging belay for P-5 or you can belay from a ledge by a tree 20 feet lower   P-6 finish up Weisner's Corner and belay off old man remnants 

  pitch 1 is about 160 feet, pitch two is about 90 feet, pitches 3,4 and 5 are full rope length pitches (200 feet), and pitch 6 is about 120 feet 

  Be careful of loose rock, especially on the middle pitches

Sustained climbing and obvious finish to Condescendor on easier slab climbing

The first pitch is fun with its slippery friction crux through the watercourse. There is a convenient bolt belay to rap from. Continuing up is an adventure with the classic Lakeview finish.  

  This description varies somewhat from the one I had. It said something about a slab some bushes and an overlap? Here is what I found 

  P1 5.8 90, From below the bean climb about 20 feet reaching an overlap this is passed more easily on the left side. Then move back right to the watercourse friction climbing past two bolts to a bolt belay in the bean.  

  P2 5.7 (5.5R) 180, Head straight up through a break in an overlap with good gear then run out the easy face above aiming for a cave. Belay under the cave with big gear or to the right with small gear, or something else. 

  P3 Finish up Lakeview

We were gonna call this " Just Like You Said it Would be" 'cause we were both very into Sinead at the time. An absolute classic line that K and I trained HARD for. A real testament to the late Mr Karl as he said it would go "FOR SURE". We did thousands of feet of 12/13 at Quincy to prep for this.

Start at the obvious left facing corner below the old man's dog. P-1 An inobvious start leads you to the corner and up, avoiding vegetation gain a left leading undercling flake, follow this to the belay.  P-2 Move left and up into the actual dike on weissners dike, be careful as it is very loose, move up and right to the belay.  P-3 Traverse right over ledges and 3rd class terrain to the top of the old mans dog.  P-4 Move up the left hand margin of the indented slab till you can move right and either use the two bolt anchor for 2 indented heads or sling the boulder above it.  P-5 Move up and left to a right facing slightly rotten corner with an ancient pin and some tat, continue climbing up till you reach the extreme left hand margin of a large ledge, belay.  P-6 Traverse the ledge to the belay under the archival flake, 3rd class.  P-7 The archival flake and the classic corner and belay off the old mans safety net.

Another fine friction route that climbs the beautiful arete right of Condecender. In it's current condition this is a spicy climb but is only reminiscent of the first ascent when Cris Ellms bouldered the entire arete with no gear! Later another party, unaware of this placed two bolts on lead, in my opinion making it repeatable.  

  From the ground boulder up past a bolt to another bolt at a good stance, aim for a pin then climb a thin crack linking with  Consolation Prize's second pitch. Belay From P2 on C. Prize 

  Alternatively you can climb the chimney corner just to the right of the arete then step left to the second bolt. This is the start to The Horrifying Ear (5.5) and is a good way to top rope the initial boulder problem start.

Great climbing in a great location.  Follow a series of disjointed corners and flakes up the left hand side of the slab.  Good gear and great climbing.  Bolted belay in the top center of the slab.  Much more fun than it's neighbor to the right.

Wild exposure is the crux of this one! 

  P1 5.4 120, Climb first pitch of Weissners dike to a two bolt belay

 P2 5.9 120, Move out right from the belay and head up then left aiming for the steep wall below the Dog. Tricky and sometimes chossy moves up and left gain you the ledge before the dogs jaw. (this pitch can be split here by belaying to the right if you think rope drag will be a problem) Here exposure is the name of the game. Hand traverse out left (no feet!) and mantle onto the dogs nose (crux). Follow a ledge around to the south side of the Dog climbing loose flakes and an easy corner (shared with Fleabitten) to finish. Belay from two bolt belay on top of dogs head. 

Just right of the first pitch of the horrifying ear is anothet right facing corner.  Climb this corner to the top and traverse under the 'horrifying ear' through some loose rock till you are at the base of the con prize hand crack.  Climb this and top out con prize or rap.

P1-Climb the dike from where the dike touches down to the ground to a 2 bolt anchor under the old man's dog. 5.4   

  P2-Climb right from the belay through some loose rock and trend up and right staying to the right of the old man's dog, you should go past a 4" birch on this pitch, stay just to the right of it and belay at the start of some 3rd/4th class slabs. 5.4   

  P3-climb 100' of 3rd/4th class and belay at a 2 bolt anchor on the base of the indented slab.   

  P4-Climb the right hand margin of the slab, bushy and a little loose till you get to a medium sized tree ledge with a OLD 1 bolt anchor next to a perfect crack. 5.4   

  P5-Climb straight up from the belay going under an easy roof to a 4" crack in a beautiful dihedral to another roof, pull the roof on the right and you will join the second to last pitch on lakeview near the top.  Sinker jams on this pitch. 5.5   

  P6-The archival hump and the classic corner to the top.  Belay off cables.  5.6

  [NOTE: This pitch, while technically on Lakeview, is where the 5.6 rating comes from for Weissner's Dike.  R.Hall]

There are three leaning corners just south of the slabs. Maybe you've looked up at them and and wondered how they'd climb. Well, one day we decided to just rack up and go for it. I'm glad we did, as it turned out to be a fun climb and good adventure. Despite the manky first pitch and a bit of rubble topping out on the last, the majority of climbing is great and the rock good, and the final corner, if a little brutal, is phenomenal!

 P1, 120' 5.4    Scramble leftward up corners of broken rock to a large ledge below one final corner with some tat that resembles a rap station. This is the first pitch of Old Cannon/Blockade. It's a total choss fest but easy enough to avoid the worst of it.   

  P2, 90' 5.8+    Head up a corner and continue straight up a slab past an old 1/4 inch bolt 15 feet to your left to another corner below a large overlap. Become established in this then pull straight through the roof and head up to another overlap/roof and belay on its right. This is a fun pitch on nice rock.  

  P3, 110' 5.9    Break right from the belay and traverse under the roof until it ends then climb up to the base of the central of three corners (the really nice one that can be seen from the ground). Jam up the absolutely splitter crack and perfect corner to its top. Watch for loose rock as you pull out of the corner (I cleaned one big jug) and build a belay at a slung spike.  

  A two rope rappel from here gets you back to the first belay. A single 60m rope from the first belay gets you close enough to the ground to scramble off.  

  Certainly not a classic but after the first pitch the rock quality is good and seems stable.

A great 5.10 friction adventure on the Cannon slabs.

 P.1 Climb 30' of the Consolation Prize ramp then up a 4-6" crack and left to belay ledge (2 bolts). 60' 5.7 

  P.2 Layback up the arch for 35', then climb the overlap (pin). Climb left past 2 bolts to a small ledge (2 bolts). 100' 5.10 

  P.3 Move right and up the overlap, and over it at the corner. Climb overlaps for about 60' to a bolt, then up left past another bolt to a small slab. Head left and belay at the base of a layback flake. 140' 5.9 

  P.4 Climb flake, then up right to an open book corner.  Pull overlap at a thin crack to the belay at the base of a slab. 100' 5.8 

  P.5 Diagonal right up slab, then back left under a small overlap to Lunch Ledge. 100' 5.6 

  Finish as desired

A little run out at the start but once you pull into the overhanging crack you'll find gear everywhere.

The north end of cannon has a vast low angle area where smooth slabs meet steep overlaps and lead to a dramatic headwall. Lakeview and Consolation Prize are fun and popular among others.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 5. Slabs