Start up Leeper's Corner, then move over to the start of the long flake crack. Then jam and layback up the crack. One can belay on the same bolted anchors of End run and Game on.

A challenge with the crux is that the flake crack is invisible to you when you have to move over. It is a blind reach. Look for where the left face of the corner has an upper (third) crack that can be jammed or underclung. Here is the place. That crack is actually the other side of the crack you are shooting for. It is a big reach. Some may have to dyno for it. And if you are under 5' tall, it may be physically impossible to make the reach. Doing a two-handed dyno would be very awkward from the way the corner and crack are situated (dynoing around a bulge). So, the given rating is more of a minimum. I suppose most routes are body-size dependent, but this route may be more so than most.

On the Rebound

Leeper's Z Corner

Free Cat

Run In

End Run

Hag Crack

Magician's Apprentice

Game On

Joins End Run via a direct start from the base. Clip two bolts, with the crux at the second involving mantles onto dishes.

After the second bolt, move to the base of the crack (for On the Rebound), then follow thin edges up and left into End Run.

It is rather runout to the first bolt and from the crack to End Run, but in both cases, the runout parts are much easier than the crux.

In the middle of the crag, climb up the clean right-facing flaring corner, sort of like Battered Sandwich, but facing the other way and a little easier. Initially, a jam crack in a corner, but higher becomes more of a chimney. I've seen some climb the chimney part with their back to the slab, fighting for every inch. It seems faster and easier to do with one's feet on the slab, ones back or hands against the top. The route seems to leave quite an impression on folks, either they love it or they hate it (this might reflect on which side they had their feet).

One can do a variation finish that traverses out onto the slab.

Shares the same start as On the Rebound.

There is a walk-up anchor at the top, about 25' above the old anchor for this route. You can TR from here, doing the fun face moves to the top, or re-direct the rope at the lower anchor. Very easy access.

An excellent introduction to classic Index face and slab climbing. Highly recommended.

Steeper edging at the start (10b/c), then lower-angle friction moves (10c/d) up higher.

From the base of the cliff, head 20 feet up a trough to reach the start of the route. Clip the bolt and traverse onto the slab with some thin face/slab moves. The next bolt is up and right and a moderate runout will be present to reach this bolt. From here, follow the bolt line up the slab to the chains.

The climbing is sustained 5.10a slab most of the way up.

It is also very easy to set up a toprope. Walk to the very top of the crag, to a large fir tree. You can use the anchor bolts just above the tree, or use the handline to reach the bolted anchor about 10' lower.

Bless the climbers -- probably Virgos -- who keep this route clean. The second flake is the crux. Very easy to place gear. Often a choice for first time leaders along with Seniors Citizens in Space which is 200 meters to the left down at Private Idaho.

Start at the obvious crack just to the right of Hag Crack for the first ten feet, then traverse out right into the system of cracks and flakes leading up. A great additional beginner route to the crag.

There are two walk-up anchors that one can use to TR this line, both to the right of the Hag Crack anchor. Just walk up the right side of the crag, then follow the obvious handline across the ledge.

Or one can set up a TR from the Hag Crack anchor, using a redirect to the route's finishing anchors a few feet below the above-mentioned access ledge.

Full on friction climb.

Start in the crack-groove, then move onto the face, following the bolt line.

A walk-up TR anchor exists at the top for easy access. This can be used for several routes in the vicinity.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hag Crag