A beautiful and shady corner. The walls on either side of the narrow corner are very flat, but have a number of good pockets. A handful of techniques can be used to ascend the corner, and the difficulty of the climb will vary depending on your climbing style.

Patience

Dihedral

Duck Soup

Nutcracker

Rolling Stones Gather no Mas

Meanderneath You

Edmund's crack

The Bridge Troll

Worried Dog Blues

Just your style

Worth the Wade

Burning the Candle at Both Ends

Barber Shop Cafe

Grady's Route

Three Billy Goats Gruff

Shave and a Cut

New Kids on the Block

Wade For Me

Da Boyz are Back in Town

Pepe's School of Beauty

Kingston Chronic

Hillsboro Hooker

The Nipple

This corner system is less sutained and appealing than its neighbor. There are many suspect blocks that could pull, caution is advised. The crux is encountered right off the ground climbing directly up to the corner system by a thin seam. it can be made easier by starting slightly to the left.

Climb the Dihedral to the right of Nutcracker.   Finish on Wade for Me: 5.8   Finish on Nutcracker: Slightly harder

Fun face climbing up a short wall. A tiny catcus is growing out of a hold past the second bolt, and will scratch your belly when you make the moves going past it.

An excellent line leading up through an intimidating thin dihedral, and ending on a long finger-crack/corner. The dihedral start is the crux and while the moves don't feel terribly difficult, they are committing and on small/suspect gear, considering the rock quality of the crag. Still, if you're looking for a gutsy lead in the low 5.10s than this climb is it!

Start on four bolts on a nice face and arete to a pocketed faces that is protectable with cams.    If protection seems dubious you can escape to the crack of Just Your Style.

Sustained face climbing for the first 4 bolts, on a thin but elegant face. Trees have grown into the route, causing an added element of difficulty. Dennis Jackson's guidebook states that the route is 5.11- if you refrain from using the corners. The bolt line takes you far enough away from the left corner where it doesn't help much, and the arete on the right side doesn't offer any great advantage. After the 4th bolt there is a nice rest-stance before a small roof. Good holds pull you through the roof and the remaining 30' to the anchors.

A short thin short crack tucked between pillars, with a bulgy section on the middle

Three bolt arete to a single-chain anchor.

  Straight up the face. 

  A stick clip for the first bolt might be necessary.

A straightforward crack and corner climb with a distinct crux a little less than half-way. The crux is right above a good ledge and rest stance. Here a slight bulge in the wall is surmounted with a near perfect parallel sided thin-hands/ring-lock crack.

A shadowy corner which, when water is flowing in the creek, has a small pool at its base. However, it will take a significant rain before one has to wade to the start of this route. Stepping stones come in from the left and the right to reach the nice but small dry rock shelf. The corner is full of good holds (especially on the wall on the right-side of the corner), ample protection and a fair share of suspect looking blocks which must be navigated around.

A nice line passing an early roof on the left another roof on the right. The rock at the bottom is a pale grey, and quite smooth. The crux is pulling around the first roof using finger jams and tenuous smearing. The rest of the route is straightforward up the hand crack, with great jams, and plenty of face holds. Rock quality degrades the higher you get up

Face on the right side of the dihedral with natural pro

Start in a layback corner, then up left past 7 bolts to a chain anchor.

Take the cracks through overhang to the right of Barber Shop Cafe to a dihedral and then finish on Barber Shop Cafe

Start on first two bolts of Worth the Wade and then stem left out of the dihedral to finish up the face.

Between NKOTB and Three Billy Goats Gruff.   Finishes on anchors with NKOTB.

This route climbs a grey-tinged face, roughly up the middle of one of the columns. The start has the most technically difficult moves, a sometimes puzzling sequence of holds in thin and discontinuous seams. Straying either to the right or left of the bolt line naturally will occur as you work past the bolt following the natural holds.

Start from the right side of the central cave just a few feet left of New Kids on the Block and trad climb the jug-filled corner past the giant chockstone and eventually to a 2-bolt anchor on the righthand side of a low-angle dihedral. Good route for a beginner leader, or as a warm-up. Probably the easiest route at Percha Creek.

A short low-angled slab leads up to a nice roof problem. Easier for tall people. This short route feels like a boulder problem in the V0+ range. Failure only causes a fun clean fall, so go for it. 

  This route is called "Unknown" (route #2) in Dennis Jackson's guidebook and is given a rating of 5.11.

An exciting climb that's easier than it looks. All the bolts for this route are on the right side of an arete which is quite smooth, but can be clipped from  around the corner if needed. There is great exposure as you move from one side to the other following the line of least resistance. The 5th bolt is on the lip of an overhanging lip. Let your feet kick free to really feel the exposure on this climb, then crank up the good holds. 

  CAUTION: There is an awesome jug (clipping hold too) below the overhang which is a slightly loose block. I don't think it could pop out, but folks should be aware.

A fun crag tucked underneath NM Highway 152. Climbed since the 1980's a handful of bolted and trad routes can be found here and there exists potential for more route development. Most of the cliff receives direct sun but there are numerous willows to provide shade in the canyon. The willows have choked up the canyon directly below some routes, and some bushwhacking is needed to get to the base of the climb and even to reach the first or second bolt. If water is present, it can be difficult to get to the base of some climbs, as there will be pools directly under portions of the cliff. [edited by Aaron Hobson]

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Percha Creek, Hillsboro