Start 15 feet left of Mantlepiece at an upstream facing corner.  Climb the corner to the edge of the main ledge, step right and then continue up the inside corner.

Missing Years

Mantlepiece

Sciolist

Sneakers

Sneakers Descent

Epigone

A fun route and the longest one at Juliet's Balcony. Thought provoking crux (no spoilers here). It was a little dirty when I climbed it so give it a look over when rapping down.

Just upsream from Juliets Balcony there are several dihedrals that offer good climbing, inluding Mantlepiece.  Sciolist starts to the right (upstream) of Mantelpiece. Start to the left of the jam crack - climb the wall following the incipient crack.

Start at the upstream facing wall below the ledge at the base of Epigone.  There is a dark wet chimney just upstream. Climb the crack on the right side of the face.

Follow the obvious hand crack to the top. If this where either longer, or steeper, or both, it would be an area classic. As it is, it's still a good place to practice jamming.

Just upstream from Juliet's Balcony there are several dihedrals that offer some decent climbing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Juliet's Balcony: Upstream