Begin by climbing up a shallow groove between two columns using face holds and finger locks. Clip the fourth bolt and merge onto the next route to the right. Continue upwards on fun climbing with relatively large holds with short harder sections in between good rests. Quite a fun route.

This route is really a combination of two different 5.12 routes, but since it is the most common warm-up for the area, I have entered it.

Divine Microphone (aka the Warm-up)

Divine

Spin Doctor

Talus Dweller

Bicipital Groove

Sugar Brown

Atomic Sky

Blade Runner

Hey Ladies

La Dentista (aka Behemoth)

Blow of Death

Talus Dancer (aka TH4)

Delirious

Mr. Microphone

Finesse up the crack/column for 3 bolts to a big jug and reach high to clip the 4th bolt. Instead of breaking right as for Divine Microphone (aka the Warm up), continue straight up on underclings and sidepulls for another 4 bolts, trending right then breaking back left just before the anchor.

Note: At the 8th bolt, you'll see a pair of mussy hooks on the left (anchor for Blow of Death) and a lone bolt without a permadraw on the right (the original finish for Divine). Ignore both of those and continue straight up for another 8 ft, heading towards a large undercling flake just below the anchor.

Begin with easy climbing past the first two bolts to a sheared off column that forms a mini roof and marks the start of the crux. Clip the third draw and pull through the crux using gastons and sidepulls. It is a bit of a distance to the fourth clip, but by the time you are up a ways from the third clip, you are on much easier climbing and you should have no problem. At this point, climb up and slightly left before heading up and right for the final long section of fun 5.10/5.11 climbing.

The classic steep climb at Columns. Probably overhangs 60 ft but only gains 25 ft in elevation.

Pull a few easier moves to get off the ground and clip the first two bolts before getting into a sit-down rest. Collect your thoughts then move horizontally using lots of kneebars and roof climbing trickery to get to a good rest around the 6th bolt. Clip the 7th draw (black) then fire a bouldery crux before pulling on a few more jugs to reach the chains. Super classic.

Ascend the obvious crack on the right side of a column to a small roof then work up body position dependent holds on a beautiful wavy column, past a key full-paper-towel-roll sized block that may come loose but seemed solid for me, to an excellent clipping position for the anchor.

Make a few easy moves to get off the ground, then into a somewhat bouldery sequence on underclings for a few feet. Move right to a huge undercling block then up to a hidden jug. From here, follow good holds up and left to a good no-hands rest at 1/2 height. After the rest, the climbing eases to 5.10-5.11 for another 50ish ft to the chains below a small conifer.

This route reminds me of McDevitt Route aka the 11c warmup at Jailhouse. Sustained climbing with not many rests. At the anchors about 40-50 feet up you can continue leftward into Divine for the extension, which entails some fun endurance climbing that doesn't change the grade.

Rad pitch on the left side of the cave. First route to the right of la dentista.

Start in a corner immediately right of Bicipital Groove. Climb up the corner for a few feet, clip the first bolt and then move right. The hanging dagger above the belay looks scary, though it's solid and easy to avoid. Continue moving up and right through very 3-dimensional climbing to a good rest below the roof. Traverse right and dyno out the roof to a massive jug. Clip here, then hang on for two more bolts of pumpy climbing before the angle eases up right below the chains.

The climbing on this route utilizes many knee bars, scums, and heal hooks to traverse 8 bolts of upside down mostly horizontal climbing; most climbers will want a knee pad or two. Have a quick hand at the belay on this one because you are never far from the ground and a blown knee scum while clipping will put you close to the dirt (talus mostly).

Climb up flakes and jugs for a couple of clips until the route takes a hard left. If you are tall enough, lean out and clip the draw out to the left and commit to the crux section involving cross-through moves, side-pulls, and slopers; this section is very nice and finishes with a move back up and right to well deserved rest. Finish by climbing straight up on easier, but engaging climbing.

Good rock, good movement, and fun climbing.

This route is long and pumpy, engaging moves the whole way and a heart-breaking finish.

Climb up the column on decent holds requiring very sequential movement. At the top of the column, grab a decent rest on a large undercling by the fifth bolt. From here, pull the small roof and pass two more bolts to a good rest. After clipping the eighth bolt, make a small traverse right, clip the last (9th) draw and save some energy for the final crack up to the chains.

Talus Dancer starts out on a massive undercling before moving to cool compression climbing up a column. The moves up the column get progressively trickier until the 4th/5th bolt (crux). Get a good rest before pulling over the roof on massive jugs and traversing back left to the anchor.

Begin by climbing up easy, vertical flakes and jugs to the beginning of the steep roof. Next, follow the obvious line of fixed draws out the horizontal roof for maybe 30 feet. The roof section involves traversing huge jugs, but owing to the steep nature of the roof (you actually climb slightly downwards towards the end of the roof), this section is fairly pumpy. At the end of the roof, pull the lip and clip the anchors that are slightly up and left.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Cave