A very clean and steep dihedral on the far left side of The Iron Wall. Fingers, stemming and funky pod / flare climbing to twin cracks. Left is Fists, right is thin. Climb the fist crack for 15' until one can stem back over to the right crack. Exit out left under the roof on top. Destined to be a Cwm classic. Thank you J. Unema.

New Potato Caboose

The Falconer

Cast Iron

Pig Iron

Birdsong

The Bong Route

Long Iron

Iron Sharpens Iron

The Iron Knee

Iron Potato

Detritus Spite Us

Surprise

Tire Iron

Evening Breezeway

Steam Machine

Low Pressure Zone

Honey Cwm

Steep and exposed stemming. 4 star movement on slightly blocky features. 

Start either on the ground just right of a large juniper, or begin 20 feet up on a ledge with a belay bolt. Climb a clean right facing corner to a stance. Stem your way up using finger/hand jam pods as they come. Once out of the stem box launch into steep fingers to jugs. 20 more feet or moderate climbing takes you to the rim. 

  Above is the original description from the FA party recovered by wayback machine.

Pretty much every size crack and a few face holds define this one. The bulge at 1/3 high is the mental crux but easier than it looks if you find the face holds. The crack widens as you get closer to the rim eventually going from fist to off-width. The climbing is entertaining and the rock is pretty clean.

 This route was removed from MP and recovered via the Wayback Machine

Pig Iron is a striking, almost elegant looking line when seen from across canyon. However, the harder climbing on this pitch is both a little bouldery and down home thin hands jamming. Bomber rock and gear from start to finish.

Rappel 90' to good mini tower ledge, one bolt belay- bring medium wires to supplement. From the ledge head up lower angle right facing dihedral with smeary foot edges. Mantle up onto very slopey ledge below the roof, and have a look at the first crux. A large left side pull rail allows passage through this somewhat thuggy section. This feature was formed by a 6 foot long flake which came off in my hands while scoping the line.

 After the roof, jam your way through the next 40' of a splitter small hands crack. The angle doesn't seem steep, but the thin hands jamming will test you for sure. At the end of the splitter section follow the crack as it bends to the right past several easy boulder problems, and then romp to the top.

Johnny Cash, Rock Island Line

Hand crack to traverse?   Old pin on the route.

Unknown Route perhaps put up by Cullen Kirk and others around 2013/2014. Found Route name and grade on the Wayback Machine, but couldn't get a photo or description. I have climbed what I think is Long Iron, and the line is awesome, so I'll provide information assuming that the line I climbed is Long Iron.

 Amazing long varied crack.  Starts low by New Potato Caboose.  A couple potentially loose blocks still exist here, though I cleaned a bunch.  Start on crack with jugs, climb up and gain clean corner.   Follow clean corner through cruxy thin section to awesome double crack at top.  

 This line needs some cleaning/traffic for the lichen.  It will be excellent once it really cleans up.

Hand jams, finger-lock, and stem through the first third to reach a stance.  Commit to the twin seams, staying left of the hand-crack to the right (a separate route), and launch into a delicate and powerful boulder problem on twin seams in iron-hard basalt. Upon reaching holds at the end of the crux, continue straight up the thin-hand crack to the final section of engaging ending, finishing at the rim. The belay ledge at the base of this climb also accesses a old-school hand-crack to the west of Iron Sharpens Iron.   

  The old-school route has a bong piton or something similar with some tat on it.  The line is well-defined, and is not hard to follow.

A beautiful clean seam to finger-sized corner.  Move up and left off the belay, gaining the clean corner.  At the top of the corner move right below the roof to top out at the same location as Iron Sharpens Iron

Detritus Spite Us is a fantastic right angling line that really captures your eye when taking in the wall from across canyon. DSU serves up everything from fingers to hands jamming, awesome stemming, and a roof cap move that is both cruxy and beautiful.

Rappel 90' to small, obvious belay ledge. Be careful when setting the rap line to make sure you will hit the ledge.

 Start off of small belay ledge and work your way towards the left hand crack. Pass several engaging moves to get established in the stem box, and then pick your path of gear. At the roof, take a deep breath and commit to the very airy left exit with heel hooks, jugs, and maybe even a small swing! Romp to the top.

Limited info, but it is listed in A Cheap Way To Fly. I wanted to add it so folks know its been done, and may be worth a visit.

 First crack system climbers left of Pig Iron. Hand crack to roof. Giant scary hanging block in the roofs, just left of this line may be the reason for the name? Or the name may stem from the option of traversing onto Pig Iron before the roofs, which I imagine would keep it the given grade.

Climb the start of Detritus Spite Us and without continuing up its more submissive right side, move left past a few in-cut jugs and a red camalot placement toward the striking finger crack. Execute a few steep moves past a bolt to gain the left side of the arete and enjoyable mixed climbing to the rim.

Good for the grade. Long, Lots of varied movement. Start just left of the boulder/pillar at the base of Low Pressure Zone. Climb left side of that pillar past a couple choss blocks chocked in the corner, could use some cleaning, not too bad.Continue into wide crack follow to top. Top out through the "breezeway" to meet the top of Cast Iron or try the thinner crack top out to the right.

An acute corner decorated with lichen nudges you farther and farther from its seam until you are spread eagle above dead air. A bolted belay leads you into the tight corner housing great options for protection and a promise for sustained stemming.

Start the same as for The Falconer but move left on face holds to obvious ledge 20 feet up. Clip a bolt and make bouldery moves to next ledge. Reach high to clip another bolt and work through crux stem boulder problem. From here use micro cams and nuts to work into obvious splitter that goes from tips to fingers, hands, to fists and eventually arches left to blocky terrain and the rim. The rock on this route is quite good, but there is a lot of lichen. I scrubbed the crap out of it but it's still in need of a few more cleaning sessions.  

  Above is original description from FA party recovered via wayback machine.

Pronounced Honey Coomb From the semi-hanging belay, climb the slabby finger crack past a short boulder problem to a stance. Jam the sweet locker finger and thin hand crack (classic) up to the hanging block. A horizontal splitter and exciting mantle to the left (crux) will allow you to avoid the bombay squeeze. From the stance next to the hanging block, wrestle your way up and right through the wide crack to easier ground. The beginning of this climb might have been done before but the exciting exit out left was near impossible before i cleaned it. 

The Iron Wall is a haven of good stone and carefully hung columns in the middle of the South Side of the canyon. Though this intimidating wall hosts several hard test pieces, it has also become a great warm up sector with a number of good 5.10s in close proximity to each other.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 5. The Iron Wall