Start on

5.5 My Ass

, move past loose blocks and crux of that route, then veer left after 3rd bolt to Celtic Sun anchors.

Not really worth doing.

Assman

Geisha Girl

Hardcore Female Rash

Celtic Sun

Pay It Forward

Layback and Enjoy It

ISO 9000

Lord of the Jungle

Clean Shaved

Mike Tyson's Face

Booby Prize

G-String

Decameron, The

Hepatitis C

Shady Lady

Plumber's Crack

Cool Crack

One Repetition Max

Weisenheimer Brainstorm

Bass Ackwards

Pure Power

Bobby D's Bunny

Barb Wire

Beef Boy Field Trip

The Good Book

Centennial

Bikini Line

Zeitgeist

Crescendo

Jaws of Life

Mrs. Field's Follies

Butterfly Flake

Witches of Bangor

Kinesthetica

5.5 My Ass

Badass Tattoo

Two roofs through wierd moves and some strange moves above with underclings and rounded crimps.

Climb the right-trending wide crack to a stance, then head left to the first bolt.  Follow 10 more bolts on mostly low angle rock with some high stepping bulge moves up and left to anchors at the top just below the rim.

If you are desperate or just curious then do this climb, otherwise stay away.

This route wanders through three mini roofs doing strange moves and wandering at times quite far off the bolt line.

Don't waste your time on this one, there are too many other classic lines at this cliff.

Start behind the left end of a large triangular detached block. Pull a roof followed by face moves to another smaller roof. Move left to gain the anchors.

A fun climb with 2 cruxes.  Boulder up to a ledge (crux 1), the up the dihedral to an awkward exit (crux 2) and the anchors.

Fun, short, crimpy route. Feels like a bolted boulder problem. The crux is holding a swing after grabbing two crimps, then becomes really easy up to the anchors.

This route stays dry in a light rain.  Climb up broken rock to reach the arete to the left of the crack system.  Climb up the arete to reach the crack and follow it to the thin hands section and a great hand jam.  Plug some gear in the thin hands section.   From here, make a reach to a horizontal jug and keep going on pumpy but positive holds to the finish.

This might be a good first 5.11d for someone breaking into the grade.   It boils down to one move with easier climbing before and after.   Climb up to reach the overhang.  Get setup on 2 small holds and make a big move to a jug (crux).   From here, make a few delicate moves and then it's smooth sailing to the top.

start on overhanging face. tackle bulge, then push though the one-two punch crux. it backs off after that one grade or so.

I think the crux is the beginning of the climb going through G-String. At the 3rd bold of G-String step right and join up with Clean Shaved at the fourth bolt.

Some hard sequences with some good rests in between.  Climb Bikini Line to the 4th bolt then move right around/over and overlap.  Balance up a clean face and then through fun and easier steep moves above to the anchor.

Begin in chimney and commence up right face through broken crack system and trend left around blocky bulge to base of dihedral (handcrack). Traverse left onto face, make a challenging clip, head for the arete (crux), and follow it to the top.

Nice exposure and beautiful view.

(Crux - inspect and strategize thoroughly, it's all there.)

Uninspiring bottom, leads pass a short crux to a juggy and enjoyable top. Follow left leaning crack to first bolt then continue up over two small roofs to top. Crux is at second small roof.

This climb is the first you encounter in a neat little section of Sandstonia that is separated from the rest of the cliff by large blocks at either end.  This little alcove is often quieter then the western side of the cliff and affords nice views of the river.  The cave-like hole created by a large block 50 feet right of this climb creates a cool place to hide or eat lunch in the summer.

Start on the broken face just left the dihedral in some cracks (takes gear, but only a new 5.7 leader might feel uncomfortable without it). Climb the broken face, passing a roof on the left and continue up and right on the nice face to a small ledge and the anchors.  You can TR the adjacent route (Lieback and Enjoy It, 5.10d) from this anchor with a directional or 2.

A fun easy route on cool rock.

easy romp up wide right facing corner/crack. crux at last bolt, small roof.

Obvious double crack feature to a roof with an awesome hand size crack over a bulge and to a tree (Tree can be seen from the ground slightly left of the crack). The tree had a sling with a rap ring as of 11/24/2019.

Same first bolt and anchors as Butterfly Flake. Tackle the left bolt line.

After successfully sending

Lieback and Enjoy It

, continue up and out multi-tiered roof. At the lip, keep the pump at bay, solve technical crux, clip, and head to the anchors. (Goods holds at crux, though moves are sequential.)

A fun route!

Left of a huge flake you'll climb up and to the right on a slab.  Shares an anchor with Pay it Forward.

This is the route for those chasing the 5.13a grade.   Climb up some ledges to reach the first bolt and head left on to the arete.   Climb up to the 3rd bolt and shake out.   From here, climb the arete, pinching your way to the 4th bolt (crux).   After the 4th bolt, continue out right on to the face over easier terrain to the anchors.

Looks ugly from the ground, but once past the opening moves and onto the face the climbing is quite nice.

Begin at the flakes (one has an X on it) and climb up through the two first bolts of Badass Tattoo. From the second bolt, continue straight up the steep face and into a corner and up to anchor.

This route starts 20 feet right of the chimney (which is the start for Decameron), behind the tree.

Your first good gear is at a short splitter crack. Back up your first piece because you’re about to run it out a little ways. Gently trend up and right until you find a horizontal crack. Continue up until you reach the ledge. Off of the ledge begins finger/hand crack with rounded out edges, flares and pods. You’ll want stoppers, small cams, and a  #3 BD Camalot.

At the top of the splitter crack is a devious roof which I found to be the crux of the route.

Rest and get ready to pull up over the second roof on good jugs.

Exit the last small roof on lichen covered holds and amble up blocky, 5th class terrain until you top out on the cliff rim.

Descent: I didn’t have enough rope to rap the route with a 60m. Ideally you would bring your partner up in reverse and then you could carefully Walk climbers left (skiers right) to the top of the Decameron and rap down to the ledge where Decameron tops out. From here you can pull your rope and comfortably rap down from a slung tree.

A simple alternative would be to tag another rope up with you, sling a pine tree and double rope rap.

This route is a bit blocky and a little pumpy. I think the crux is getting from the vertical stance to the slabby crack, about 40 feet up.

"Climb the short, but tricky L-facing dihedral to shared anchors" (Horst).

Takes some time to figure out a good beta.

Bowling ball-sized loose block around the first bolt.

Fun climbing leading to a bolt under and right of the roof. Step left get a good sit down rest and fire the roof.

An extension to Crescendo that includes the big roof above.

Climb Crescendo to within a few feet of the anchor, then veer right through the overhangs on jugs to another anchor.

This climb is very well named !

Climb the nice face past increasingly hard moves to the anchor.  An excellent climb.

Continue up past the anchors to finish on

Zeitgeist

Begin by climbing up the big chimney near the tornado feature. Pass through the "jaws" (pulling through a roof) and up to a ledge. Finish up the face all the way to the anchors.

Start at the same wide crack as Geisha Girl.  Look for the first bolt heading right at the top of the crack.  If you have a long stick, clipping the first from the ground is recommended.  The climbing turns to sequential, slightly less than vertical climbing past several bolts until the holds become larger and you reach a stance under the roof.  Long reaches to really big holds will get you over the roof and to the anchor.

Be it for beginning leaders, or an easy warm-up for the more experienced, this is a neat little route. Follow generous holds and the beautiful right-facing flake to the top.

Climb the slightly overhanging right side of the arete.

60m Rope Necessary.

Fluid, Flowing climb, many many 5.10 moves, no moves below 5.7 but only one 5.10c move, coming out of the  roof and pulling the blinding(sunny) move above.

Ultra-Classic!!!

Small roof near the beginning leads to good stemming through the 'X' marked blocks to the top.

Good 5.10 climb up to/through roof near the top. Some flake and lie back climbing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 01. Sandstonia