Awesome thin face climbing up the right side of Techweenie Buttress. At times, look around the right side to find hidden holds on the corner. The crux comes around bolt 5 and was, for me, trusting an improbable highstep. At the top, step left to the 2-bolt anchor above Completely Clueless. This climb was probably bolted on lead, but climbs like a sport climb now (no gear, just safely-spaced bolts). 

  The old Hill Sandia guide shows an obscure 2nd pitch to this route, at 5.10c (on the topo) or 5.11 (in the route description), and is reportedly really fun steep climbing with intermittent gear and pins.  I didn't climb it, but to do it, step left to the highest bolt on Bojin and go up a seam passing some fixed pins and then angle to the right.  Bring gear if you're doing p2.  Judging from the color of the bail biner I collected on p1 (purple on one side, gray on the sunny side), p1 doesn't see much action either.

Crankenstein

Completely Clueless

Crackula

The middle of the 3 bolted lines on Techweenie Buttress, Completely Clueless consists of thin face climbing to a very thin crux at bolt 4.  It's 30' from the last bolt to the anchor; a finger-size cam in a vertical slot would help here, a 2nd piece just before the anchor could also be placed.  This was probably one of the first sport climbs in the Sandias (although bringing gear for the top is advised).

Look for the obvious left facing corner, just north of the clean face.   

  P1: (5.8) Climbs intermittent cracks to a dihedral, followed by a slight bulge.  Continue on easy ground and over a few ledges.  Belay at a large ledge below a wide crack. (Large gear needed for the belay, #4 Camelot comes in handy, but not necessary) 

  P2: (5.8) Climb up the wide crack, til its possible to step right onto the face.  Continue up and right to the corner of a small roof.  Use a short crack to pull around the roof and continue up through intermittent cracks and face to the top of the formation.

The first large wall on the left as you descend into Echo Canyon.     If micro edges and clipping bolts are more your style, the clean face in the middle of the formation offers three sport routes. 

  The top of the formation is seen from the La Luz trail.  Upon toping out on the formation follow a solid trail for 30 yards back to the La Luz.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Techweeny Buttress