Pitch 1: Chossy chimney. Can be soloed but it's airy and loose.   Pitch 2: This is the pitch that drew me to the climb. It is a hand crack with an off width to the right of it. One can see the crack from the saddle. When the crack runs out move around left to some slab and more crack to a belay on a large ledge.   Pitch 3: We went up the left crack. The rock is not so good and the climbing is kind of tricky but fun. The top has like a South Dakota Needles summit perch.

DZ's Electrifying Entrance

Shortcut

Flight of Icarus

The route is a shortcut on the way to the West Ridge of the Wedge (or Lost Peak). Instead of the detour to the left of the next Gendarme, you continue to head up. After all, the point is climbing, not not climbing, right?  

  Pitch 1, 110 ft, goes up the gully, which takes a bit of a break before it steepens. We belayed from above this step. 

  Pitch 2, 80 ft, was to the right (would have been a continuation of the slab version below). It was uniformly steep in on a rock cut up by vertical cracks, protectable and fun.

First pitch is a nice 5.8+ hand crack. Once the crack ends, follow the start of the left-facing dihedral to a large bush. The bush can be used as an anchor. 

  Pitch two climb the entire left facing dihedral, part of this pitch is so thin that nuts are required to protect about 20 feet of the corner.  

  Pitch three continue up easier terrain to the top of the formation.

It can be sunny and windy.   Crowded? No.    Secluded? Yes!   Ingraham mentions this area in the approach to the Wedge. It's south facing and the rock quality is kind of chossy but it doesn't appear to ever get climbed, like a lot of the Organs routes. There are probably several other routes to be climbed on this small formation.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gendarmes