This route is awesome.  It is kinda like Dolofright's big brother (although it is probably quite a bit safer) -- another amazing find by Tom Gilje.  It ascends the north face of Disappearing Angel (good for hotter temps) in two pitches... a little bit of crack climbing leads to some pretty rad face climbing.

P1:  Climb the gradually widening crack to where it ends, clip a bolt, and pull a burly hand traverse straight left for 15 feet (crux!).  The falls are wild and scary, but clean.  At the end of the traverse, mantle up, and clip 5 or 6 more bolts as you face climb up to a nice belay ledge.  The passage is interesting and unlikely, and all the more so with the fragile holds.  One section on this pitch (moving to the anchor) warrants a serious rating.  You may wish to clip the first bolt on the second pitch to protect the second.  100', 5.12.

P2:  Move right and then up a short, funky corner.  From here, traverse back left 30 feet through some seriously crumbly rock to a belay around the corner on the east face of the tower.  A short  fifth class scramble leads to the summit and a rap anchor.  100', 5.11.  Two raps back down the route with a single 60m rope.

Satan's Revenge

Disappearing Angel

This supposedly goes free, but lots of folks seem to doubt it.  After climbing it I wonder too.  Satan's Revenge looks like a much better free climb on this rock, and this route is a good moderate aid outing.

P1: Start from the notch between the tower and the rimrock behind it.  Make a spooky free move onto a ledge - a fall would be bad, and a boost from your partner helps.  Clip a couple of old hangerless bolts to a fat bolt over the roof, a few more closely spaced hangerless bolts, and then free climb right to a crack.  Fingers and hands lead to a good ledge with a possible belay.

P2: Climb a thin crack past some old hangerless bolts(why?) until the crack jogs left and widens to 4 Camalot size.  If you hate this size two big pieces are prudent.  The belay is about 10' below the top of the tower and consists of one drilled angle and one crappy bolt.  Getting to the top is an easy scramble on sugary rock.

One double rope rap gets you to the ground.  An OK route with lots of old unnecessary bolts, but the summit is cool.

Description

Protection

Routes in Disappearing Angel