Clip the first three bolts on Wilson then head straight up. Use the arete for sidepulls. Crux is at the last bolt. Shares anchor with Wilson. Tricky.

I recommend that climbers DO NOT lower from this route, but rather belay followers from above and then rappel. Another option if you really want to slingshot TR this route would be to extend the anchor to the lip with some cord.

Big Heir

Wilson

Sticky Geranium

Mouse

Named after a well known Brighton winter local (he also grew up near the North Shore of Lake Superior as did I:)) who no doubt has hucked this wall numerous times snowboarding. “Killer” BIG hAIR time! We saw a mouse running around up there, too!

On a comfortable ledge below the route is a nice rope up spot. Not exactly kid friendly, though, as the belay ledge, is a bit exposed with a steep drop off down hill. That said, their is plenty of room to move about. Thanks also to Johannis for belay duties.

Pitch #1: Start up a low angle bulgy slab and pass 3 bolts before the "headwall". Good problem solving skills required for this fun section and mantle move to the two bolt belay. 5.9, 25m, 5 bolts.

Rappel the route

Climbing the route down low, we encountered three 60's era fixed pitons. An original Chouinard Lost Arrow came right out when I went to clip it and I almost dropped it. Despite the surface rust, it was very likely still as strong as the day it was forged.

I discussed the find with legendary climber/alpinist Ted Wilson (former SLC Mayor whose daughter Jenny Wilson is the current Salt Lake County Mayor....both are former US Senate candidates). He didn't immediately recall climbing on the Millie Tower 12 crag, though he definitely remembered pounding in a few pins on the wall now known to climbers as the Brighton Frighton Wall. See pages 194-195 in the Ruckman Guidebook. Being pretty sure that whoever did drive the pitons into this wall escaped short of the "headwall" into the bushes out right, we cleaned out the steep final challenging moves in the corner.

Pitch #1: A forgiving mantle step (protected by a bolt) yields access to a slab that leads to the steeper bit. Very unique patina featured granite. Pass by the ancient pitons to a bulge. Stay left (The Alpenbockers most likely went right here and off) and ascend a tilting thin corner past two bolts to the two bolt belay. 5.10b/c, 20m, 4 bolts.

If setting up a top rope, consider using long slings to extend the anchor over an edge. Lowering or TRing over this edge may damage your rope or worse. Therefore, rappelling the route is strongly recommended.

A fun easy low angle offering for the area. Great kid friendly belay area and fun beginner climb.  This is obviously easily done as a one pitch climb, but pulling rap ropes and rope drag would probably be an issue

Pitch #1: EZ scrambling to a steeper step and then more scrambling to a ledge and two bolt belay. 5.4, 15m, 2 bolts.

Pitch #2: Fun longer stretch of slab climbing to a two bolt belay. 5.5, 20m, 3 or 4 bolts.

Rap the route or scramble down back to the base of the climb.

Description

Protection

Routes in Millie Tower 12 Crag (aka Killer)