The crucial hold for the crux has broken in the past few months. It is now a much worse and more painful crimp, but I've heard that the route still goes.

Essentially just an extension of Akiba's Prison, which is already a power endurance problem, Zombie adds a few moves that are harder than anything on Akiba's and it certainly requires another level of fitness.

The crux revolves around negotiating the very overhanging, almost blank face to the left of the Dancing Outlaw.

Zombie Armageddon (a.k.a. Dan's Penis)

Dancing Outlaw

I ain't broke, but I'm badly bent

Bandito

Old and In the Way

Purgatory

Akiba's Prison

Lonesome Pine

Smooth Criminal

On the steep side of the boulder, Dancing Outlaw goes up the left side of the rib using a couple of good slopers, crimps, and an incut.  Muscle your way into the powerful undercling and up to the lip.  Move left on a couple of poor slopers to the arete, and top out just left of the arete.

One word of caution:  on the hueco undercling, don't crank on the lip of the hueco; it flexes a lot and there are other spots that are just as good.

In many ways this is THE classic climb at the Brickyard - is there a move on this problem that isn't awesome?

Sit-start and make the crux move up to some hollow jugs, then continue straight up to the lip and top out using fantastic slopers up the fin.  Probably a better easy V2 problem if you skip the sit-start..

Start dancing outlaw move up left to the crimps in the middle of the face. A couple of bumps off the slopers and a toe hook get you over the lip.  Set a heel and grab some patina to top it out.

Sit Start at left hand pocket and right hand crimp, climb up on good flake and arete slopers to a good hold at top (be carefull its sounds hollow)

One of the harder p.e. problems in SB, Purgatory links a lot of awesome difficult moves into one sweet package that's pretty much as good as it gets. The crux is simply maintaining enough composure to crank the last big move on the Outlaw after cranking through the crux of Zombie...with no rest (sounds straightforward enough right?).

Very fun for a link-up, Akiba's Prison begins with the same starting hold as Dancing Outlaw.  Make one or two moves up, then a tough move to span the hole to begin your traverse right to the start of Smooth Criminal.  Top out by keeping it together to climb Smooth Criminal.

The stand start to

Smooth Criminal

; begin with your left hand on the sloper on the arete, right on a solid crimp.  A couple of tricky moves on bad slopers leads to an easy top-out.

Sit start with the left hand in a good hueco and the right on a decent edge.  Move up and right on amazing slopers with some toe-hook trickery.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dancing Outlaw Boulder