Honestly, we only climbed a portion of the route after getting off the Beckey route.

The pitches seem to be:

P1 - moderate approach pitch angling slightly up and left towards the slab left of large roof, 5.7?

P2 - 7

P3 - 9, bolt + gear

P4 - tricky 5.10 slab, this is the pitch we climbed

P5 - topo indicates this is the crux pitch, did not climb

P6 - ? the buttress eases back, and like the Beckey, the rating probably eases a bit

Chortle

Can't Get Here From There

Big Chief No Show

The Manipulator

Bird Brain

Press The Eject

Beckey Route

Beckey Route direct start

P1. Face climbing to a thin right facing corner. Crux getting started in the corner.

P2. Nice face. Much easier. Rap

P1. 11c. 30m. Find a flake to get through the steep bit right of Brainstorm, go up the clean slab leftwards then through the double roofs to a stance.

P2. 10b. 33m. Up the face past 6 bolts to a crack and the anchor.

P1. 11c. 30m. Up past 7 bolts through the Brainstorm traverse.

P2. 11c. 35m. Move right and up past a bunch of bolts. Crux up high.

Climb up to the obvious layback flake through the overhanging section left of Brainstorm. At its top go up and right (don't eject) then back left and up to anchor on Brainstorm. 30m rap.

P-1 rope stretcher. Start at a dirty dihedral which gains a ledge. Negotiate some brush then head up a right-leaning layback/offwidth, over a small roof (pretty stiff for .7) and to a slung tree belay stance, flake for anchor. P-2 Climb up and right to an arete with nice jams and gear to a wild roof move (lieback) and another 30 or so feet to a gear belay in the vertical crack up and slightly right (.75-1" cams)... do not belay from flake lower down or get suckered into going out left, the line goes straight up. P-3 Crack comes and go and with it a little run-out. Fun, techy climbing. A welcome fixed piton and more moves leads to a bolted belay out LEFT. P-4 Follow fins straight up. Bolts are hard to see looking up from the belay but they're there. (For some reason, someone put a bolt right where there's some good gear. Nice 3/4 placement) Follow up (more bolts?) to a belay at the bottom of a large crack (2-3" pieces). Fourth class leads to the summit.

This left facing dihedral leads to the flake belay on the Beckey. We did an incorrect direct direct start up a very grainy dihedral, which was fine. The actual start is much farther right.

A seam angles left up a golden stained slab under a roof. This deposits you a the base of a large left facing dihedral. Move left at the top of the dihedral, around the corner to the flakes atop Beckey P1.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in El Segundo Buttress