A dead vertical, straight-in finger splitter with zero feet on a short dark wall of perfect Wingate.  Begin in some broken thin cracks and end with a hand-jam to clip the anchors from.  This route has not been led free.  5.12+ is just a guess on the grade...good luck.

Blood Hush

Strong Muons

Radioactive Porksickle

Weak Bosons

Start about 30 feet left of Weak Bosons.  Climb the crack to a viscious fingers and tips offset.  The walls of the crack are not parallel, making for interesting jamming and gear placements.  Desperate!

This is an Awesome route, worthy of some traffic.  The line itself is unmistakable from below.  Bring two ropes - its been a while and my recollection of pitch & rappel lengths may be off - please comment if they are not right!

P1 5.12b/c:  Start near a wide crack a few feet right of Weak Bosons.  Clip a bolt to cross the face to the right. Follow a handcrack in a dihedral up to a diminishing left arching crack that eventually pinches to nothing.  At the top of the arch get into the dihedral and try to get your breath back before the thin and technical dihedral crux - protected by some pretty small cams. A calculator and one of those brainstorm paper pads might help solve this crux. Save a yellow metolius TCU for the pod past the crux. Belay a little higher at the anchor on the ledge ~100'.

P2 5.13-: Tips & finger lock 12' up a steep, strenuous crack to an unlikely traverse to the right at the bottom of a splitter seam with some rectangular pods.  Solid but small, 00 TCU(s) protect(s) the traverse.  Once traversed use the arete and the crack, move up until you can get a finger into the widening seam, then square up and campus a few tips & finger locks to easier finger locking.  Continue up the fingercrack through a couple of bulges to the business - a final bulge where the fingercrack leans left, gets slick, and overhangs the most.  Ibuprofen is cheap, just do it. over the bulge, juke left at a flake/roof and get into the unlikely pod for a quick rest.  A thin (Blue Metolius TCU) short 5.11 section is between you and the anchors.  Good times!

A desperate thin hands corner and splitter.  Your stamina will be tested.  A 60M rope BARELY reaches.  Two ropes would be a guaranteed landing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Physics Department